Whirlpool Dryer Repair - HELP PLEASE!!!

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all Common. Re-string / Element Kits are not expensive at all and should also be in stock. I'd venture a guess that the thermal fuse is going to cost you more. Which one was it can you take a picture of it and where you took it out from? Usually it;s the long white one and they are like 15 bucks I think

When the Element shorts out mid string it has a lower impedance which in turn has a higher current demand and usually burns up the thermal fuse that is not rated for that amount.


Oh yea... KEEP IT UNPLUGGED UNTILL IT IS FIXED! the heater could come on by itself or it could shock you to touch the dryer
 

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Sharpshooter
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Thanks a lot guys. I used Associated Parts for my thermal fuse, it was $9.99 (cheaper than online). Greer wanted $21.99 with a lifetime warranty.

I replaced the thermal fuse, cleaned the ENTIRE back of the dryer, re-bent the heating element back to shape, cleaned the lint trap, hose and vent.

Seems to be working fine now. If I do need to replace the element or various thermostats, I know exactly what to do now so no biggie. For now, I'm calling it fixed for $10.

I think the final root cause was 12 years of accumulated lint that stacked its way up in the exhaust tube. While it wasn't completely restricted, when you add my rooftop vent, some additional lint accumulation throughout the exit and my wife trying to dry 500 pairs of jeans on the automatic high setting... you get the idea.

So... thanks again and hope someone else found this useful for reference. I feel confident enough to fix my dryer from now on and won't have a need to buy a new one unless this one completely craps itself and isn't cost effective to fix any longer.
 

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I just saw this thread. I worked at Sears in service for 5+ years, so I have seen many a dryer mystery in my time.

I think the element shorted out, which got hot and killed the thermal fuse (which cuts of power to the motor). This is what you suspected anyway.

The thermostats (you should have two, a low side and a high side, for normal 250 degree and delicate 150 degree cycles) are probably ok,, they usually die in the off position meaning you get tumbling with no heat (as the motor runs off of only 110). But they can be known to die in the "on" position which can cause overheating.

I would just go with the element and the thermal fuse, and call it good, but check the temp to be sure the elements are working. You can also test them by putting a lighter on them - when they get hot, you will hear them click off.


Also note:

Thermal fuses (for the motor and tumbling, 110v):

[Broken External Image]

awww.partsreadyonline.com_images_S6303392519.jpg


Thermostats (for the heat bulkhead, 220v):

amidwestapplianceparts.com_images_Thermostat_Fuse_Kit_LA_1053.jpg


amidwestapplianceparts.com_images_279769.jpg
 

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