Driveway replacement question

[CHenry]

Are you taking credit for the Oklahoma interstate highway system? I now know who to call and complain about the crappy roads.

JK, I was curious about the pattern for the rebar. Thanks for the info.

Actually I never placed a drop of concrete for the highways, I just design. I was merely regurgitating college information from 30 years ago when I took construction management.

 

[MacFromOK]

When I built my shop, we used what they called "6 sack mix" at the time (standard was 5 sacks cement per yard).

My shop is 30'x48' with a footing all around and one across the narrow middle (all poured together, no stress relief grooves). I put 1/2" rebar in all the footing, and used mesh topped with 3/8" rebar on 3' centers for the floor. Floor thickness is 5-7 inches. I put down a thick layer of sand on top of the soil to allow for shifting.

No cracks. Not anywhere. Built it in '82, and have had several semi tractor/trailer rigs and one dozer (D6 or D7?) that we ran in on crossties (they're actually a lot lighter per square inch than trucks).

@KOPBET, it's your call... but all it takes is one (city or other) truck backing in your driveway to turn around.

Luck.

 

[KOPBET]

... but all it takes is one (city or other) truck backing in your driveway to turn around.

Luck.

Good point. I hadn't thought of that.

 

[SlugSlinger]

When I built my shop, that is connected to my house via a Porte Cochere, I asked to have the concrete reinforced for the 10k lbs 2 post lift I was going to install.

When I installed my lift, I was drilling 7/8” holes with a 10” masonary bit for the Hilti concrete anchors. I drilled 6 holes per side because of the 24”x24” post base plate foot print of the American made Worth lift. Every hole I drilled was at least 8” deep and there were a couple the 10” drill bit didn’t go through.

I would much rather have an overkill concrete poor than not.

 

[CHenry]

Good point. I hadn't thought of that.

city trucks are prohibited from turning into a residential drive for this exact reason. In OKC at least.

 

[CHenry]

When I built my shop, that is connected to my house via a Porte Cochere, I asked to have the concrete reinforced for the 10k lbs 2 post lift I was going to install.

When I installed my lift, I was drilling 7/8” holes with a 10” masonary bit for the Hilti concrete anchors. I drilled 6 holes per side because of the 24”x24” post base plate foot print of the American made Worth lift. Every hole I drilled was at least 8” deep and there were a couple the 10” drill bit didn’t go through.

I would much rather have an overkill concrete poor than not.

Dang we use 10" concrete often for interstates lol. Overkill for a 10k lb lift for sure. The specs for those lifts are 3.5" thick at 3500 psi. It has a hug footprint so less concrete thickness is needed. I had 4" concrete and 4900 psi in some core samples and 3.5" and 3900 psi on others. Odd how the strength differed but must have been off a different truck.

 

[trekrok]

Good point. I hadn't thought of that.

This reminds me of when a neighbor was having concrete poured along the side of the house. The truck that delivered it backed half way up their driveway. I can't imagine anyone driving those trucks wouldn't know better. Hope was that the homeowner didn't, I guess.

I think the prep is more important than higher psi concrete and larger rebar. And staying on top of cure.

 

[CHenry]

And dont drive on it at all for about a week, longer is better but an average car weight wont hurt it after 5-7 days. Now if you drive an F-350 I'd keep that off it closer to a month.

 

[-Pjackso]

If your going to the expense of reconstructing your driveway surface, you may consider ensuring your road base is solid also.
A road surface with a poor base is guaranteed to fail - given time.

I'm not sure where you're located, but here's the city of Norman road specifications. (Select the Streets Standards)
https://www.normanok.gov/businesses/builders-contractors/design-engineering-criteria
See drawing sheet 4, for residential road requirements - like for a housing sub-division.

Of course, these specs are for ROADS - which could be considered overkill for a driveway. But on the other-hand, it's the city engineering requirements - NOT some Joe's guesswork. It should completely be good for whatever you park on it.

Also, based on my research for roads - typical asphalt road service life is 25 years.
Typical Concrete service life is 40-50 years, and costs about 20% more then asphalt.

Check your road base.
Good luck!

 

[CHenry]

The base of at least 3" sand is always a no brainer to any contractor, but yes, specify the base.
Its not at all rocket science like the above post