6.5 creedmoor

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doctorjj

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The best I can tell the pressure spike is steep enough that by the time the bolt releases the primer has already been blown. With the pin staying protruded through the face of the bolt through this period there is no longer a hole in the face of the bolt to blow part of the primer into.

Again this is my best guess. I have no way of verifying pressure curves in mine or anyone else's rifle.

I thought the spring on the firing pin in the original AR10 design was to hold the firing pin back, to keep it from potentially slamfiring or firing when dropped. I didn't think the spring pushed the pin forward. Wouldn't that be asking for slamfires?
 

dubs chops

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You are correct they are, They still prevent the pin from floating also. I was afraid of the slamfires, So I tested it repeatedly. I found that the primer indention was identical or even slightly less that when the pin was allowed to float and slam into the primer.

I need to look into one of those high pressure bolt's also to be honest. I had no idea they existed. If it works it seems like it would be a better solution long term.
 

doctorjj

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You are correct they are, They still prevent the pin from floating also. I was afraid of the slamfires, So I tested it repeatedly. I found that the primer indention was identical or even slightly less that when the pin was allowed to float and slam into the primer.

I need to look into one of those high pressure bolt's also to be honest. I had no idea they existed. If it works it seems like it would be a better solution long term.

I use titanium firing pins on my AR15's because of my fear of slamfires. An AR10 firing is bigger and heavier. Maybe I should change mine out to titanium on my AR10's as well??
 

Huckelberry75

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If you want speed (~3,100fps) and high BC (“pointed” Berger 140gr Hybrid) check out the 6.5 4S George at GA Precision is chambering. Rumor is it has a decent barrel life as well. It’s basically a 7saum necked down to 6.5. I may go this route if more brass manufactures (other than Hornady) produce brass for it.

You neck down either 7saum or 300saum brass and stuff it full of H1000 and top it off with a 130 vldh or 140 hybrid. Its a bad mother F'r. The 130's running 3220 at the muzzle only give up about 100ft# of energy at 1000yds to my 185gn vldh from the 300winmag that has a muzzle velocity of 3100, and I use 8-9 grains less powder and significantly less recoil. Step up to the 140 hybrid and the margin shrinks even further. I have 2 of the 6.5saums and they are rapidly moving more guns out of my safe because they simply work.

Dennis, the one built by GA Precision is what you shot the plate at 1,115yds in Eagle Nest with.........

Here is a picture of my other light weight hunter and my FIL with his buck from last fall.

20141125_163840.jpg

The 6.5 Grendel, Creedmoor and 6.5saum all shoot the exact same bullets, but grant you, the 140hybrid is not recommended for the Grendel. They 123amax is purpose built for the Grendel, but I shot it accurately to 1000yds+ in the Creedmoor.
 

Jcann

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Once my barrel in my 7wsm goes south I'll probably rebarrel to a 6.5 4S. I hate that I'll have to retool for this chambering but I think it will be well worth it.
 

Jedabug92

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I know I am a day late and most likely a few dollars short but from my calculator, I am showing my .308 155 gr is super sonic to 1400 ish, NOW I may have missed something but that is what I'm showing on my end.
 

Jcann

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I know I am a day late and most likely a few dollars short but from my calculator, I am showing my .308 155 gr is super sonic to 1400 ish, NOW I may have missed something but that is what I'm showing on my end.

A 155gr .308 generally isn't the bullet of choice for long range shooting for this chambering. The majority use 168 or 175gr with the 175gr being the better choice in my opinion.
 

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