Anyone extremely familiar with early-2000's GM heating/cooling systems?

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tRidiot

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I've got an '04 Tahoe LT and the heating/cooling is driving me nuckin' futs.

I think the problem is the blend door actuators. From what research I've done over the years, this is a pretty common problem, like the dash cluster stepper motors. The hot/cold on the driver's side doesn't want to change. Started a couple years back when it went from ice cold to blazing hot while driving down the road in the middle of summer - but only on the driver's side. Can't get it to change when adjusting the climate control. Pass side works fine as intended. Sometimes, if I switch from cold to hot, it won't work, but in a few minutes or hours or days, it'll switch on its own. It's either max cold or max hot when it does it. Sometimes it will switch on its own without touching the knob. I have the dual climate control digital display.

From what research I've done, I think there are 3 blend door actuators in the dash, and since it's limited to driver's side only, it could be the main one or the driver's side secondary - I think, again. My mechanic thinks it could be the main climate control unit in the dash, but I've asked him about it a couple times and he says he isn't really into the HVAC stuff and I don't think he really wants to mess with it. He's a great guy and great mechanic and honest as the day is long, but it's just not his cup of tea.

Also, the rear isn't working either... It blows, but from what I researched, the rear blend door actuator had a problem where the actuator would overtravel and jump its stop point and get stuck. I found what was supposed to be a replacement actuator to fix this problem and swapped it out (this is the part I got), but it didn't seem to fix it. So my solution with the rear has been to pull the rear panel, set the actuator to hot or cold in the summer, then disconnect the power to it and leave it alone. Again, this leaves it at max heat or max cool and stays that way for the season.

Times like this time of year, when you want to go back and forth from hot to cold in mornings and afternoons, it's a real pain - driving in the afternoon with the windows down on the highway, it still radiates heat (in the front), but if you manage to get it to switch to cold, you freeze your arse off in the morning - today it never switched to hot and I froze all the way home.

For the summer, my mechanic rigged up a valve in the hose to the heater core to stop flow, so even if it switched the blend door to hot spontaneously, it never flowed through the heater core and it stayed cold. Yesterday before leaving for work, I opened this valve, but the blend door never switched, so I stayed cold all the way home this morning. Even when I get it to switch to hot (last winter, anyways), I could never really get the truck truly WARM, even though it was blowing relatively warm air through the vents.


A few years back, I had another mechanic (before I found this honest one) who told me it was a major pain and quoted me like $750+ to fix the front. A different mechanic the year before I paid something like $200 to fix the rear heat and then a few days later it went back to cold (this was during winter, of course), so I'm assuming he probably just reset the rear blend door like I have done, then it jumped its track (why do I want to say jumped the shark?) again, and I was back in the same boat.

<sigh>

Long story. Common problem, so I'm led to believe. I really don't want to spend $1000 or so to fix these issues, but I'll be got-danged if I want to spend another winter driving nearly 3 hours round-trip to work every day wearing a parka. I figure while I'm at it, a new blower motor and maybe heater core might help improve the flow and blow and get the whole thing working gangbusters, that is, if I can get this switching problem fixed.

So... any of you guys work on these things regularly? Obviously, Tulsa area is better for me, but I am willing to do what I need to do.

Sorry for the novella...
 

NightShade

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Before doing a ton of stuff check the connections in the dash for the HVAC control and see if that makes it work right. It could also be the controller having an issue at this point. Pretty much all the vehicles are like that now and I had to do the valve in line for mine so it stayed cool. Was working on something before at one point and the connection was loose just ever so slightly and the truck was cold even though it should have been fine as the doors would not open. Checked the connection and the problem was solved, didn't get it plugged in JUST right when I had ran a couple wires to an amp from the head unit.
 

travisstorma

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Very common issue. My 2004 Silverado has the same issue. Drivers side sticks in HOT during summer. The actuators have a feedback system to the climate control module that fails. Drivers side is easy to replace on the Silverados, but the passenger side requires the whole dash to damn near be pulled out if i remember correctly. (I think the labor guide stated 6.6 hours or so...)
 

tRidiot

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(I think the labor guide stated 6.6 hours or so...)

Which would explain the ridiculous repair quote. I dunno, I just don't think I can pay $1000 or more to get this crap fixed. I will researching on the Tahoe/Yukon forums and probably do it myself, just swapping parts till I find the right one that works. I'll check the connections in the dash, too.... my problem is I have so much crap in my dash that my installer wired up, I hate messing with it because I'm bound to mess up something there. lol
 

gfercaks33

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My 05 Silverado will sometimes cut the drivers side ac to heat, it's the blend door acuator, i thought of fixing and it looked simple (take a cover off and swap it) but I just put the truck in neutral and restart it.
 

Jeff405

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I know it's not the same vehicle, but I had to change a blend door in my wife 2010 Mustang, the gear was stripped out and would work some times and not others. You could hear the gear the gear trying to catch and feel it with your hand on the dash near the door. Does that sound like your problem?
 

nofearfactor

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No idea how close my 04' GMC Envoy SLT is to yours but in similar problem I had my guy change out the actuator door on the drivers side because the little gears in it had worn out. Fixed my problem. And it wasnt that high at all. Ive finally got a great guy and hes been trustworthy as hell going on a few years now. He had one of the best rated shops in Chicago but wanted out of that rat race and came to N E OK and just loves it down here. Hes honest and more than capable which means his large shop is always busy now and always booked up.
 

Larry Morgan

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Mine is getting this way. If you tell it change the setting to be warmer, it won't change much at all. Then all the sudden it will come out VERY warm. Then you end up moving it colder again. And the process repeats...
 

_CY_

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1999 - 2004? Chevy GMC Truck Heater Blend Door Stuck Easy Fix How-to

if you've got a stuck door this might be worth checking out .. this video shows how verify you got a stock door. then instead of taking apart this guy drilled a hole to access, use a hook to free up door without taking apart.

very similar tactic to used to access say a bad in-tank fuel pump that normally requires dropping fuel tank. cut a hole inside body sheet metal to access fuel pump from above without dropping fuel tank.




2003 Chev Tahoe passenger side AC/Heat actuator
 
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