Bolt Carrier Group finish? What is best?

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dennishoddy

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Is this gun going to be a hunting gun with minimal rounds down the tube, or is it going to be a tactical operator with a thousand rounds a month?

You might supply a little more info about what your intended purpose is going to be with the rifle.
 

dennishoddy

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Go with the most economical BCG then. The high end coatings are for more extreme wear with shooters that shoot a lot.

My basic complete rifle that I spent about $400 on with new and used parts, has shot almost a 1000 rounds last month without a hiccup. I blast stuff through it, wondering when it will fail.

Basic BCG.
If you keep good cleaning and proper lube, the basic BCG will last your lifetime at the rate of fire you describe.
 

henschman

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Phosphated bolt carrier groups have been pretty reliable for the last 50 years or so.

That's how I feel. I stick with tried and true, known reliable parts and specs until I see some reason not to. I've never seen any proof that any of these NiB BCGs are even as good, much less better, than a mil spec BCG when it comes to reliability and service life. I know a good mil spec bolt tends to have a service life of over 10,000 rounds. I'd go phosphate and keep it wet, like it was meant to run.

I am leery of any claims of BCGs that supposedly don't need any lubrication. The bolt is a piston. The gas rings are its piston rings. To claim that piston rings running under the kind of temperature and pressure an AR bolt sees don't need any lubrication just runs counter to everything I know.
 

ASP785

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The only money I would spend on bolt upgrades would be to the extractor spring, o-ring and insert. $5 bucks from Sprinco buys you a 5-coil spring and mil-spec O-ring and insert. Just like Hencsh says above, you got to put oil on it, and $150 buys you a lot of oil...
 

uncle money bags

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Heres the deal, OP. Those special sauce coatings add lubricity and some corrosion resistance. Thats all. The advantage is easier cleanup, and reduced friction, to a point.
With AR's especially, lubrication of the bcg in the form of a good oil is important because it facilitates flushing debris away from the contact surfaces. This is why you should keep the bcg wet. It doesn't need to be dripping , but more than just a light coat.
Those special coatings tend to shed oil quicker than a phosphate treated bcg, and that coating does not provide the same flushing action as oil. The bottom line is proper lubrication is important; much more so than a surface treatment.

Things to look for when selecting a BCG.
1. Milspec C158 bolt, MPI tested. Lately there has been some discussion about 9310 bolts and the general consensus between guys much smarter than I, is that if they are properly heat treated then they are good to go. Hodge Defense seems to be the go to place for the 9310 bolts.
2. Properly staked grade 8 gas key bolts. This isnt a be all, end all test though. However, any manufacturer who skips this step is almost definitely skipping other more important steps.
3. Hard chrome plating in bolt carrier cylinder. This will appear as as a matte silver/grey finish where the bolt surfaces/gas rings contact the bcg. Bonus if the inside of the gas key is also chromed.
4. Black or grey phosphate coating everywhere else except the firing pin.
5. Less important, depending on your gas system and if you run suppressed, is the extractor coil spring and insert. You want the the 5 turn spring and black insert. Rule of thumb is the shorter the gas system and barrel length, the more extractor pressure is required for reliability. A simple o-ring mod, placed around the extractor spring, can take care of any issues that may arise.

Expect to change gas rings every 5000-7500 rounds. Earlier for sbr's, later for rifle length gas systems. Same goes for the extractor and extractor spring. The rings in my suppressed sbr failed the drop test at less than 3000 rounds, but i know guys with 10,000+ who havent changed anything and dont have any reliability issues, so ymmv.

To check your gas rings, extend the bolt and place the assembly, bolt face down on a flat hard surface. The bcg should not collapse on its own weight. I also tap the table to try and cajole the assembly to collapse and replace if it does, but its probably not necessary.

As far as lube, everyone has an opinion, so here is mine. Fireclean or Slip 2000. Both are very slick, stay where they are put, non toxic, and dont change properties with the weather or temperature.

Im just really only adding to what a couple of guys already said, but the bottom line is that you dont need to spend a fortune on the bcg to get an excellent product that will last longer than the majority of shooters will encounter. But, you can spend a bunch of money on stuff that has no additional advantages and some disadvantages.
 

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