Car guys!!! Help!!!

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Hump66

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Car: 1998 Buick Regal GS

So, I go out to my car this morning. Start it, or more accurately try to. It will start but only if i give it gas and will not idle if I remove foot from pedal. Got the engine warmed up, same thing. Did some checking online, disconnected the MAF sensor and voila! It idles. Reconnect the MAF and now it idles. I'm thinking bad/going bad MAF, but thought I'd get some opinions before shelling out a couple hundred bucks.
 

Blinocac200sx

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Well, it could be the MAF sensor, but I'm betting that disconnecting it puts the car into a safemode, and that pulling the plug on a number of sensors would yield the same result. Don't overlook the IAC, and TPS.
 

SDarkRage

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I know on the Ford Explorers, the MAF rarely ever goes bad. Its always the IAC that craps out and the little valve doesn't move back and forth anymore due to carbon build up. Also, if the GS is anything retarded like the motor in the Explorer, Ford in their infinite wisdom put 2 different coolant sensors on the motor located in the same spot. One gives you the temp indication on your dash, the other one tells the computer what temp the motor is so it will lean or richen the fuel flow. If that second one goes bad, it leans it out so much the truck won't run unless you give it gas continuously. Also, the intake gasket could be leaking, causing motor to lean out too much.
 

TJay74

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Trick on a bad MAF is to tap them lightly and see if the condition repeats, if so yes bad MAF. TPS could be another option and as suggested the Idle Air Control valve could be bad or carbon fouled and may need to be cleaned or replaced.
 
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Don't touch the MAF intill you make sure the idle control motor if functioning properly. My guess is that it is full of gunk that is frozen and won't let it get any air at idle. Find the ICM. Turn te ignition to run and tap it a bunch fairly hard. Then see it will run and idle
 

marksmandcs

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I would do as dieseltech and tyro mentioned and check for junk in the intake system. I had a problem with residue in the small gap between the butterfly valve and the throttle body wall that was causing the same symptoms you have. It was caused by vaporized oil coming from the cam cover vent hose that goes to the intake between the air box and valve. The residue settled on the butterfly valve seat. When i unplugged my MAF it ran fine but after cleaning the valve with carb cleaner it ran fine. The problem led me to leaky valve stem seals that went bad from a water pump failure induced overheating problem.
 

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