Getting a new carry gun, need info

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Excuse me sir, but I believe it is you who is showing ignorance about the design of the *modern* 1911. The grip safety effectively BLOCKS the firing pin on modern 1911 with the series 80 or shwartz type mechanism, because the firing pin is blocked until the trigger moves, and the trigger cannot move with the grip safety in place. The gun CANNOT fire with the firing pin blocked, so there's NO NEED whatsoever for "block[ing] the sear from releasing the hammer", as you say, even though the manual does in fact do that. Doesn't matter if the hammer falls because the firing pin is blocked by the grip safety mechanism on modern 1911s. On a modern 1911, the manual safety is JUST AS redundant as putting a manual safety on a Glock. Sure, it could be wanted or come in handy by some people in some circumstances, but not needed to make it drop safe (as I said before), or *generally* as safe as 99.94% of the pistol-using world wants or needs.

Para, Colt, Sig, Auto Ordnance, and Taurus all use the series 80 style firing pin block.

Kimber and S&W are slightly different, in that they have a specific firing pin block from the grip safety depressing, so the firing pin block in these is directly tied to the grip safety. But even on the others, the series 80 mechanism keeps the firing pin from going forward until the trigger is depressed, and the trigger cannot be depressed with the grip safety disengaged.

Now arguably, having a manual safety is safe-"ER" on an old, old 1911 without any modern mechanism like that... that is, *IF* you're gonna possibly drop your gun while it's in the holster on your body. As I said before, put the manual on while holstering and unholstering, and you're completely good to go, even if you drop it, even on a series 70 / old old 1911.

I have given no misinformation whatsoever, I do not believe.
Snap caps + dry fire at home, problem solved.

Now that'd be a good idea (thank you) if I *needed* or wanted to train on disengaging a manual safety! :)

Condition 0 isn't an excuse for less training.

No excuse needed for anything. Training IS needed. Training on making disengaging a manual safety while drawing is NOT needed on a modern 1911. You certainly CAN if you want - nothing wrong with carrying & training this way either! But there's no need to if you don't want to, since carrying in this condition is perfectly fine and dandy, and as safe as anything (again, with a modern 1911). Obviously, if you're *gonna* carry with the manual safety engaged, then you'd better train that way!

As I say, people get apoplectic on this due to inertia, particularly the older fellas, but no one can dispute the facts. Ask 1911 tuner from THR if you like; he'll tell you the same thing. I'm only a "semi-expert" - he's a true expert on 1911s. It was a real concern in the 70s and before. We're 25+ years later now....
 

WhiteyMacD

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On a side note, when I first started carrying my 1911, I carried C2. I then transitioned to C1 and have carried that way since. Not saying other ways are bad, just what I prefer.
 

JD8

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Excuse me sir, but I believe it is you who is showing ignorance about the design of the *modern* 1911. The grip safety effectively BLOCKS the firing pin on modern 1911 with the series 80 or shwartz type mechanism, because the firing pin is blocked until the trigger moves, and the trigger cannot move with the grip safety in place. The gun CANNOT fire with the firing pin blocked, so there's NO NEED whatsoever for "block[ing] the sear from releasing the hammer", as you say, even though the manual does in fact do that. Doesn't matter if the hammer falls because the firing pin is blocked by the grip safety mechanism on modern 1911s. On a modern 1911, the manual safety is JUST AS redundant as putting a manual safety on a Glock. Sure, it could be wanted or come in handy by some people in some circumstances, but not needed to make it drop safe (as I said before), or *generally* as safe as 99.94% of the pistol-using world wants or needs.

Wow, it's best to just admit you were wrong instead of introducing a red herring full of assumptions. I'm not showing ignorance, I'm showing experience. I've just shot and owned 1911s for awhile now and tend to own better built 1911s. Lots of "modern" day QUALITY 1911s do not employ a FPS. Wilson, Norinco, Nighthawk, Springfield, STI, Baer, Armscor, Ed Brown, Dan Wesson.... wonder why that is? Regardless, that wasn't the context of the coversation now was it?

Now the redundancy part, gonna have to agree to disagree as the FACTS show different, again especially if you own QUALITY 1911s.


I have given no misinformation whatsoever, I do not believe.

Sure you have. You claimed something to be just as safe in terms of relative conditions, and once again, you were wrong. You claimed something to be 100%, again......misinformation. Now if you had something else to go on other than internet lore I'd be inclinded to listen. Maybe you should hit up the FBI on how they carry their Springfield Professionals? Various SWAT teams. Surely these guys put a number of rounds downrange relative to yourself.

Now that'd be a good idea (thank you) if I *needed* or wanted to train on disengaging a manual safety!

Well, I'm sure you can read about all the tactics you need. :D

Training on making disengaging a manual safety while drawing is NOT needed on a modern 1911. You certainly CAN if you want - nothing wrong with carrying & training this way either! But there's no need to if you don't want to, since carrying in this condition is perfectly fine and dandy, and as safe as anything (again, with a modern 1911). Obviously, if you're *gonna* carry with the manual safety engaged, then you'd better train that way!

Again, claiming "modern" 1911s shows ignorance as to what is out there. How were they carried in war? Before lawyer locks and FPSs? How are they carried by those that actually train, compete and enter into harms way?


Whitey.... I apologize.
 

BigRed82

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Whitey, my vote would be for the EMP. They are very sweet shooters and perfect for the role. I was this close (l l) to getting one myself just a few months ago. (ended up getting a G26 and G17 Gen4 instead). I personally think the EMP is one of the best, compact semi-autos on the market.
 

ez bake

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Excuse me sir, but I believe it is you who is showing ignorance about the design of the *modern* 1911. The grip safety effectively BLOCKS the firing pin on modern 1911 with the series 80 or shwartz type mechanism, because the firing pin is blocked until the trigger moves, and the trigger cannot move with the grip safety in place. The gun CANNOT fire with the firing pin blocked, so there's NO NEED whatsoever for "block[ing] the sear from releasing the hammer", as you say, even though the manual does in fact do that. Doesn't matter if the hammer falls because the firing pin is blocked by the grip safety mechanism on modern 1911s. On a modern 1911, the manual safety is JUST AS redundant as putting a manual safety on a Glock. Sure, it could be wanted or come in handy by some people in some circumstances, but not needed to make it drop safe (as I said before), or *generally* as safe as 99.94% of the pistol-using world wants or needs.

Para, Colt, Sig, Auto Ordnance, and Taurus all use the series 80 style firing pin block.

Kimber and S&W are slightly different, in that they have a specific firing pin block from the grip safety depressing, so the firing pin block in these is directly tied to the grip safety. But even on the others, the series 80 mechanism keeps the firing pin from going forward until the trigger is depressed, and the trigger cannot be depressed with the grip safety disengaged.

Now arguably, having a manual safety is safe-"ER" on an old, old 1911 without any modern mechanism like that... that is, *IF* you're gonna possibly drop your gun while it's in the holster on your body. As I said before, put the manual on while holstering and unholstering, and you're completely good to go, even if you drop it, even on a series 70 / old old 1911.

I have given no misinformation whatsoever, I do not believe.


Now that'd be a good idea (thank you) if I *needed* or wanted to train on disengaging a manual safety! :)



No excuse needed for anything. Training IS needed. Training on making disengaging a manual safety while drawing is NOT needed on a modern 1911. You certainly CAN if you want - nothing wrong with carrying & training this way either! But there's no need to if you don't want to, since carrying in this condition is perfectly fine and dandy, and as safe as anything (again, with a modern 1911). Obviously, if you're *gonna* carry with the manual safety engaged, then you'd better train that way!

As I say, people get apoplectic on this due to inertia, particularly the older fellas, but no one can dispute the facts. Ask 1911 tuner from THR if you like; he'll tell you the same thing. I'm only a "semi-expert" - he's a true expert on 1911s. It was a real concern in the 70s and before. We're 25+ years later now....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hfYJsQAhl0

With that being said - I'd get a steel J-frame and call it a day - I've had several "thin" autos for sub-compact carry and have just changed over to pocket carry.

I've carried an EMP, a Kahr K9, M&P9c, Walther P99 Compact, handled a CZ RAMI, and a list of others that I can't even think of after a day of absorbing .gov health care and being this tired.

My vote is to go with a J-frame.
 

HKCHEF

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My vote for all steel summer carry. HK P7M8 or PSP. Extremely accurate fixed barrel pistol. Extremely safe squeeze grip cocking mechanism.

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tm8634

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So, heres the deal. Need a smaller gun for summer carry. Have considered Subcompacts in the glock, pps and xD flavors and think I might be going back to my steel roots.


Or, give me your input on Subcompacts that fall outside of what I have listed.

Glock
Walther PPS
SA xD
SA EMP
Kimber Eclipse II

i guess you are talking about 9mm:patriot:
 

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