Polish up the inside of the barrel was my initial thought.
How would you go about polishing? Flitz and a dremel or sand paper?
Definitely not sandpaper. Flitz or jeweler’s rouge and a polishing disc on the Dremel. It’s gonna take a while, but you should notice a difference after a few minutes, to an hour. Also, may check closely for a burr. Sometimes a small burr can cause a hang-up.
Lonewolf barrels have a very tight chamber. I would suggest getting a Wilson gauge if you want to reload for them. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012791426/le-wilson-max-cartridge-gauge The Wilson gauge is just a hair tighter than any lonewolf/alphawolf barrel I have tried.
If the ammo is loaded to spec the barrel should work fine. The several issues I had early on using lonewolf barrels (in 10mm and 9mm) were all ammo related and quickly went away when I ponied up the $20 for a proper case gauge.
If the ammo is loaded to spec the barrel should work fine. The several issues I had early on using lonewolf barrels (in 10mm and 9mm) were all ammo related and quickly went away when I ponied up the $20 for a proper case gauge.
On the way! Thanks for the link!
What kd5rjz said. Super tight chamber. I would try a lee factory crimp die as the last step in your loading process. I use one for every pistol round, and it makes a huge difference. It runs a carbide ring all the way down to the base of the shell. Cheap easy fix.
Also with Glocks, sometimes storing them for a few days with the slide back helps. I know spring steel isn't supposed to have a memory, but it helps anyway.
Oh, and I can guarantee that every round will pass through a case gauge with flying colors after the FCD.
Also with Glocks, sometimes storing them for a few days with the slide back helps. I know spring steel isn't supposed to have a memory, but it helps anyway.
Oh, and I can guarantee that every round will pass through a case gauge with flying colors after the FCD.
I also use a factory crimp die with all of my auto pistol ammo, mostly just to resize it and get rid of any case flaring.
Several people make undersized dies for this purpose, but they cost twice as much and don't do any better.
Back when I was competing seriously, a lot of my friends had issues with Glock bulge if they accidentally picked up a piece of range brass, because hand built STIs also have tight chambers. The Lee FCD solved the issue for every single person who tried it.
Okie rider, where are you out of?
Agreed, the Lee dies are cheap but work great. If they made micrometer inserts for their seating dies I would probably use them exclusively.
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