Gunsmith for Ruger “speed six”

[SPDguns]

Measure the barrel/cylinder gap.

 

[Buck98]

Measure the barrel/cylinder gap.

I’ll dig out the feeler gauge in the shop tomorrow but for now I cut a small strip of paper and placed it between the forcing cone and cylinder. I closed the cylinder and the paper would slide back and forth then I opened the cylinder and rotated to the next chamber, closed the cylinder and the paper slid back and forth, repeated the process for the other 4 cylinders and there is one cylinder that the paper won’t slide easily. You have grip the paper tightly to pull it out.

 

[Hooper]

Ejector rod loose or bent?

 

[magna19]

Measure the barrel/cylinder gap.

What he said^^^^^^ If by chance the gap is at the minimun you can cut the face of the barrel forcing cone sguare and stay within the maximum cylinder gap. It takes a face cutting tool with a guide to make a square cut.

 

[SPDguns]

I’ll dig out the feeler gauge in the shop tomorrow but for now I cut a small strip of paper and placed it between the forcing cone and cylinder. I closed the cylinder and the paper would slide back and forth then I opened the cylinder and rotated to the next chamber, closed the cylinder and the paper slid back and forth, repeated the process for the other 4 cylinders and there is one cylinder that the paper won’t slide easily. You have grip the paper tightly to pull it out.

What he said^^^^^^ If by chance the gap is at the minimun you can cut the face of the barrel forcing cone sguare and stay within the maximum cylinder gap. It takes a face cutting tool with a guide to make a square cut.

Annnd.... I have the tools to do this.......

 

[ssgrock3]

Looking for a gunsmith knowledgeable with Ruger pistols. Preferably the “speed six”. I’m having issues where it will operate with no issues then it will completely lock up…. You can be shooting it with no problem then all of sudden it will lock up….. completely… nothing will move, the trigger, cylinder,the cylinder release,the hammer. I have to fight with it to get the cylinder open. Doesn’t do it with an empty cylinder. I’ve used David in Stillwater but trying to avoid a 6 hour round trip drive. Hoping to find a competent gunsmith a little closer. Looking for some advice if anyone wants to put in their two cents. Thanks

David is still your guy. In OKC I would say cutting edge arms is top shelf around here

 

[Buck98]

Busy replacing the sink in my shop today but I did make time to get the feeler gauge and check the cylinder gap. .003 slides easily for all six cylinders. .004 slides easily on three cylinders. Then there is one cylinder that is difficult for the gauge to slide back and forth, you have to grip the gauge tightly and pull it with more force and the two cylinders on either side of it requires more force than the first three but not as much as the one that is more difficult. The ejector rod appears to be OK. It looks to be spinning true. I should have gotten the calipers out and checked the length of the cylinder. Might go back out and do that later.

Thanks for all the advice. I might have to make a trip to see David after the new year

 

[mtngunr]

Sounds like the rear of crane arbor end down in cylinder worn, allowing cylinder to slide fwd and rub, where dropping in one or two "end shake bearings" (shim stock-thin washers) would fix it by keeping cylinder back where it belongs...with cylinder dismounted from crane, these bearings would be placed down inside cylinder arbor hole....I think that's how it would go on a Ruger unless lucky enough that model allows placing them between cylinder face and crane...am not up to speed on the Six line....but it a job doable at home. I think it Power Custom who sells the end shake bearings? Take your readings while thumbing cylinder forward and while pulling back to measure what sounds like excessive end shake.