Help with my 1911

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POSITIVE DISCONTENT

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Eff no! No dremel.

And you also DON'T need it to shine like a mirror.

The angle built into the ramp is important, and not to be messed with. More-over, the edge, where the cradle meets the frame ramp (wait... is this a ramped or non-ramped barrel?), MUST be sharp, you do not want to round that edge over. Trust me, you do that, you're SOL for the most part.

The thing people need to understand is that the nose of the bullet does NOT actually ride up the ramp and into the chamber... it skips off of it, and glances into the chamber, so all you really need to do is remove any large horizontal machine marks... but it doesn't need to be a mirror.

Also, is this a steel frame?

Hush up Stan. soft wheel so NOT to change the angle, yes it skips but when it hists machine marks or Parkerizing it slows and that's your feed issue. I use a wool half inch pencil point wheel with jewelers rouge and have for years. Ask Keelty, Pitt and Croaker how well theirs work now....
 

Traxxis

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Ok so I took the Para-Ordnance 1911 to the range that my dad gave me today. It is a double stack compact that has never been shot before. I cleaned it up and made sure it was range ready.

Got to the range and fired 100 target rounds without one incident. Then I loaded in some Winchster PDX1 rounds. I only fired 2 rounds and then the gun jammed. Round looked like it had made it up the ramp but failed to load into the chamber and was jammed with the round point up lodged into the top of the chamber.

I cleared that round and fired one more round and on the next cycle same result with the round ending up lodged agaist the top of the chamber.

Anyone got any suggestions as to a way to resolve this. I really wanted to carry this weapon but I am not going to take a chance with the FTL issues.

I dont know if it is a ammo issue as far as brand or just a issue with JHP in general.

Okay, a few questions...

steel or aluminum frame?

ramped or non-ramped?

Can you post a picture of the jam? You can recreate it and snap a picture of it.
 

Traxxis

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Hush up Stan. soft wheel so NOT to change the angle, yes it skips but when it hists machine marks or Parkerizing it slows and that's your feed issue. I use a wool half inch pencil point wheel with jewelers rouge and have for years. Ask Keelty, Pitt and Croaker how well theirs work now....

This may be true... but how much experience do you have running a dremel and other hand tools? Probably a lot right? Probably more than a normal person? :hey3:

It's still a :nono1:... it's not necessary, and anybody who is really familiar with the 1911 platform will tell you this too... for the average joe-blow, and dremel and a 1911 don't mix. I don't have one... and don't want one, and mine all run fine. :)

Just google it... it ain't pretty.
 

HiredHand

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Eff no! No dremel.

And you also DON'T need it to shine like a mirror.

The angle built into the ramp is important, and not to be messed with. More-over, the edge, where the cradle meets the frame ramp (wait... is this a ramped or non-ramped barrel?), MUST be sharp, you do not want to round that edge over. Trust me, you do that, you're SOL for the most part.

The thing people need to understand is that the nose of the bullet does NOT actually ride up the ramp and into the chamber... it skips off of it, and glances into the chamber, so all you really need to do is remove any large horizontal machine marks... but it doesn't need to be a mirror.

Also, is this a steel frame?

Bad things happen when you mix Dremels and firearms. Ownership of a Dremel does not make anyone a gunsmith.
 

POSITIVE DISCONTENT

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This may be true... but how much experience do you have running a dremel and other hand tools? Probably a lot right? Probably more than a normal person? :hey3:

It's still a :nono1:... it's not necessary, and anybody who is really familiar with the 1911 platform will tell you this too... for the average joe-blow, and dremel and a 1911 don't mix. I don't have one... and don't want one, and mine all run fine. :)

Just google it... it ain't pretty.

True.... Many hours but I trust rouge more than sandpaper.... I have seen clowns (yes you know them) use 80 and 120 on one and it wasn't pretty.
 

Traxxis

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POSITIVE DISCONTENT said:
Hush up Stan.
Do I come to your job and harass you while you're washing clothes?

soft wheel so NOT to change the angle, yes it skips but when it hists machine marks or Parkerizing it slows and that's your feed issue. I use a wool half inch pencil point wheel with jewelers rouge and have for years. Ask Keelty, Pitt and Croaker how well theirs work now....

Here ya go... here is what happens when the dremel commandos take over...
ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0569.jpg

ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0568.jpg

ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0596.jpg

ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0588.jpg


Here is an example of the nosedive I was talking about...
ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0570.jpg


Notice that break-over angle and how rounded off it is... this is pretty common. The only cure, and what ended up happening with this particular pistol is the ramp was milled out and replaced with a steel insert.
 

Danny

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I agree with Traxxis on this. For a skilled person, a dremel might be fine. But for the rest of us, it'll only cause problems. I had a issue when I first got my Kimber while using Speer Gold Dot JHPs. A little emory cloth with my finger, and about 10 minutes of working carefully, problem solved. You want to polish, not remove material, and that's what the average person with a dremel would do.

Take it to a pro. But first, try some different hollow points and see if it does it with those too. It may just be the ammo you're using.
 

Traxxis

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True.... Many hours but I trust rouge more than sandpaper.... I have seen clowns (yes you know them) use 80 and 120 on one and it wasn't pretty.

ai129.photobucket.com_albums_p232_niemi24s_GoodBadRampJobsa.jpg


Here is a little picture a buddy made up... pretty good illustration.

The one on the left was done by Chuck Rogers of Roger's Precision... his pistols bring around $5000 a piece and has been 'smithing for a while... the one's on the left... well, you get the idea.

Besides, I don't want to be responsible for telling him to take a dremel to it and be responsible for that advice if/when the frame is ruined...
 

purplehaze

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you have a job????!!!??

POSITIVE DISCONTENT said:
Hush up Stan.
Do I come to your job and harass you while you're washing clothes?



Here ya go... here is what happens when the dremel commandos take over...
ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0569.jpg

ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0568.jpg

ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0596.jpg

ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0588.jpg


Here is an example of the nosedive I was talking about...
ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_dream449_IMG_0570.jpg


Notice that break-over angle and how rounded off it is... this is pretty common. The only cure, and what ended up happening with this particular pistol is the ramp was milled out and replaced with a steel insert.
 

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