I wondered about that too, but then I looked at the Wolff site and found they don't list springs for the P10.
I wondered about that too, but then I looked at the Wolff site and found they don't list springs for the P10.
Most likely if it was the extractor, he'd have the issue with FMJ ammo too.
TJay... here they say that Para is of little help but that the P-12 springs say on the package for all 10 round mags etc etc...
http://forum.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=87834
Looking on the Midway site... it seems to be true. Read the "notes" part.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=348026
Maybe this will help?
Not necessarily. As he stated, he ran 100 through then switched ammo only to have the problem suddenly appear. Mine would feed Corbon and Remington all day long, but bind up on WWB. Now it eats everything.
Ok went back to the range again today. I picked up some Federal target rounds and brought some more of the Winchester PDX1 rounds. I also brought along the new magazine as well.
The new mag ran the target rounds without one issue of any sort. Then I took 5 each of the Winchester PDX1 rounds and put them in each magazine. The old one fired just fine, the new magazine did not hang up until the last round and it was a different failure than the original FTF.
This time the round hung up on in the internal ramp in the lower and not on the top of the chamber of the barrell like it was doing before. This just might of have been a fluke, I dont know at this point.
So it seems maybe the ramp polish job helped. I am going to switch over to CCI/Speer Gold-dot as that is what I run in the rest of my auto's and the nose of the round is alot more uniformed with no "teeth" like the PDX1 has.
I will report back after that range test, I have to order the ammo as no one locally carries it that I know of.
The new mag ran the target rounds without one issue of any sort. Then I took 5 each of the Winchester PDX1 rounds and put them in each magazine. The old one fired just fine, the new magazine did not hang up until the last round and it was a different failure than the original FTF.
This time the round hung up on in the internal ramp in the lower and not on the top of the chamber of the barrell like it was doing before. This just might of have been a fluke, I dont know at this point.
So it seems maybe the ramp polish job helped. I am going to switch over to CCI/Speer Gold-dot as that is what I run in the rest of my auto's and the nose of the round is alot more uniformed with no "teeth" like the PDX1 has.
I will report back after that range test, I have to order the ammo as no one locally carries it that I know of.
please for your sake don't let your problem turn into this guys problem. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=277310
Yeah I am trying not to. In some regards the gun just may need to break in. As I said my dad buys all sorts of guns and they sit in his safe for years never to be fired. I on the other hand am the exact opposite. I shoot every one of my guns I own and make sure they fire 100% of the time other than a round that is struck and does not fire.
I am going to call Wolff this week about the mag springs and then Para about a new recoil spring. Then continue to run target rounds through it (maybe another 500 rounds) and try and get about 200 rounds of CCI Speer Gold-dots on hand as well.
I would much rather carry this gun as I dont have to worry about sweat jacking up the finish like it has on my S&W MP40c that I normally carry. That gun is getting ready to head over to Ole Yeller for a recoat. The 1911 might even go to someone for some trigger work as well as I would really like to get the trigger pull down about half of where it is now.
I am going to call Wolff this week about the mag springs and then Para about a new recoil spring. Then continue to run target rounds through it (maybe another 500 rounds) and try and get about 200 rounds of CCI Speer Gold-dots on hand as well.
I would much rather carry this gun as I dont have to worry about sweat jacking up the finish like it has on my S&W MP40c that I normally carry. That gun is getting ready to head over to Ole Yeller for a recoat. The 1911 might even go to someone for some trigger work as well as I would really like to get the trigger pull down about half of where it is now.
bjg-1911 is Dr. Barry Greyson on that link I posted. I implore you to take it to him or Mike Cyrwus before wasting any more ammo. They are fantastic gunsmiths, and even better people. I mean that from the bottom of my heart. It would hurt me personally to see you waste hundreds of dollars of your hard earned money buying ammo for a gun that was built like a POS. Your dollars would be far more frugally spent making sure that your gun is not a lemon.. as mine was.
No gun that comes out of a factory is completely perfect. Mine started life as a Colt 70 Series! The exact model that amazing gunsmiths such as John Harrison, Chuck Rogers, Richard Heinie, Kim Ahrends, Mike Cyrwus, Larry Vickers, Jim Garthwaite, Barry Greyson, Bill Laughridge, John Nowlin, Pete Carber, Pete Single, Tom Novak, as well as everyone involved in Louder than Words prefer to start a custom build on. Both Mike and Barry asked me, "William, did your gun need a break-in period?" I thought for only a split second before irrefutably replying "No". Why? Because they worked on my gun by hand. They re-built it just for me! Keeping only the frame, slide, barrel, mainspring housing and mag release. Why? Because those were the only parts worthy of being used in a 1911 with their name on it. And Barry was really pushing for me to not keep the barrel. It took him a significant amount of work to keep my barrel usable. It worked out in the end because he is very very, skilled. Don't just take my word for it... when someone posts on 1911forum.com asking for a good 1911 smith in the Oklahoma area, and Chuck Rogers replies to the thread, "Barry Greyson is in OKC, and he's very very good! You know you've found one hell of a smith.
Both Mike and Barry aim to satisfy rule #1 and rule #10. Run. Rule #1 and Rule #10 when it comes to guns is Run. Run smoothly, properly, and accurately. One day it could save your life.
I will give him a shout, my money is limited right now as I am going to school full time while working. I just dont have $500+ to drop into this gun and that always seems to be the way my toys end up. Costing double once I factor in the gun and then the mods...lol
FWIW, you shouldn't assume that it's going to take hundreds of dollars to make your gun function like it should. I think it would be worth your time to have it looked at professionally.
Magazine lube? Ha! That's as funny as blinker fluid!
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