Hey swamp - you mean a FCD (Factory Crimp Die)? They're great... I use it... but there is a trade off... most semi-auto "failure to feeds" will disappear but barrel leading goes up considerably by nature of design - you're resizing the lead bullet as well as the case... I solved it by going to coated bullets long ago.... I mention this because either one of these issues might be causing someone out there grief and there is workable a solution.... fwiw
Hey swamp - you mean a FCD (Factory Crimp Die)? They're great... I use it... but there is a trade off... most semi-auto "failure to feeds" will disappear but barrel leading goes up considerably by nature of design - you're resizing the lead bullet as well as the case... I solved it by going to coated bullets long ago.... I mention this because either one of these issues might be causing someone out there grief and there is workable a solution.... fwiw
Like Revived stated. You will most likely just shoot more. You might not though. You may have more self control than I ever thought about.
Like swamPratt said, look into casting your own bullets. There was a dude on castboolits.com that was casting his own .223 bullets. He was running them in the 1800 fps range if I remember correctly. With recycled brass he was loading for less than $2.00 a box. That is mighty cheap plinking.
If i can reload for $2 a box Im in trouble i might save enough money to buy another mr556 or i might just live at my range
Yep the FCD will size down below groove diameter (possibly)
The ammo i load ..some will not even touch the sides of the FCD
My 357 slugs at .3565" My bullets are sized to .357"
I can't make my bullets large enough for my 45acp .3535-.354"
But the chamber will not accept a loaded case with that fat of a bullet..
I size to .353" or .352"
When you get to making your own ammo you will measure everything under the moon.
Yes you will be up late loading the moon will be out.
My cost for 45acp to load. EACH
.9 cent for powder.
2.8 cents for lead, if i pay 1 dollar a pound for lead.
3 cents each for primers.
so $6.70 for 100 rounds
Buy your powder in 4 or 8 lb containers..1lb will just make you angry when you are out and can't find the same batch number..
The ammo i load ..some will not even touch the sides of the FCD
My 357 slugs at .3565" My bullets are sized to .357"
I can't make my bullets large enough for my 45acp .3535-.354"
But the chamber will not accept a loaded case with that fat of a bullet..
I size to .353" or .352"
When you get to making your own ammo you will measure everything under the moon.
Yes you will be up late loading the moon will be out.
My cost for 45acp to load. EACH
.9 cent for powder.
2.8 cents for lead, if i pay 1 dollar a pound for lead.
3 cents each for primers.
so $6.70 for 100 rounds
Buy your powder in 4 or 8 lb containers..1lb will just make you angry when you are out and can't find the same batch number..
I found this on another forum.
Tom
From: "John Lee" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Factory Crimp Die for lead semi-auto calibers
To: "XXX" <[email protected]>
Date: Thursday, October 13, 2011, 11:26 AM
Thanks for the suggestion of a Factory Crimp die with an interchangeable sizing ring. I will think about your suggestion but have serious reservations about producing it and calling it a Factory Crimp die. If we make the sizing ring any larger it will not produce ammunition that will work in any firearm.
I guess we could advertise it as "Produces ammunition that may work in some firearms"
Seriously, the sizer ring is .001 to .002 smaller than a SAAMI maximum cartridge. This produces a finished cartridge that will not exceed Factory Maximum, a dimension necessary to fit in any standard chamber gun. Many users can use larger cast bullets that swell the case in excess of factory maximum and will work perfectly in one or more of their guns. That same crowd frequently will use a taper crimp die to assure "reliable feeding". The taper crimp die nicely squeezes the brass in turn reducing the bullet shank diameter. Had they used the correct diameter bullet they would not have needed a taper crimp die nor a Factory Crimp die.
For any given brass thickness there is a limit on how large your bullet can be and not swell the brass over the SAAMI limit. If you are using selected brass of uniform wall thickness one can successfully use larger cast bullets without fear of producing ammo that will not chamber properly in any gun. If you are using mixed range brass stick with the bullet diameter that the cartridge was originally designed for and you won't need a taper crimp die nor a Factory Crimp die.
Again thank you for the suggestion for a "screw adjustable crimping die" basically our Factory crimp die without the sizing ring, it would be a fraction of the cost of Factory Crimp die without the ground and polished carbide ring. Bounce the idea off your friends on the forums and if there is much interest I will give it serious consideration.
Sincerely,
John Lee, President
Tom
From: "John Lee" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Factory Crimp Die for lead semi-auto calibers
To: "XXX" <[email protected]>
Date: Thursday, October 13, 2011, 11:26 AM
Thanks for the suggestion of a Factory Crimp die with an interchangeable sizing ring. I will think about your suggestion but have serious reservations about producing it and calling it a Factory Crimp die. If we make the sizing ring any larger it will not produce ammunition that will work in any firearm.
I guess we could advertise it as "Produces ammunition that may work in some firearms"
Seriously, the sizer ring is .001 to .002 smaller than a SAAMI maximum cartridge. This produces a finished cartridge that will not exceed Factory Maximum, a dimension necessary to fit in any standard chamber gun. Many users can use larger cast bullets that swell the case in excess of factory maximum and will work perfectly in one or more of their guns. That same crowd frequently will use a taper crimp die to assure "reliable feeding". The taper crimp die nicely squeezes the brass in turn reducing the bullet shank diameter. Had they used the correct diameter bullet they would not have needed a taper crimp die nor a Factory Crimp die.
For any given brass thickness there is a limit on how large your bullet can be and not swell the brass over the SAAMI limit. If you are using selected brass of uniform wall thickness one can successfully use larger cast bullets without fear of producing ammo that will not chamber properly in any gun. If you are using mixed range brass stick with the bullet diameter that the cartridge was originally designed for and you won't need a taper crimp die nor a Factory Crimp die.
Again thank you for the suggestion for a "screw adjustable crimping die" basically our Factory crimp die without the sizing ring, it would be a fraction of the cost of Factory Crimp die without the ground and polished carbide ring. Bounce the idea off your friends on the forums and if there is much interest I will give it serious consideration.
Sincerely,
John Lee, President
To the OP. Yes, do start reloading. Buy an RCBS rock chucker kit and it will last a lifetime. Learn to reload on it and then buy a progressive of your choice.
Heck you could even start with a Lee kit, it will cost less. Those kits will have everything but a manual. Buy several manuals. Get more load data from powder and bullet manufacturers.
You will not be wasting money starting with a single stage or a turret press. You will use it for years to come even if you have a progressive also.
You will find when you do start that you will be buying more equipment as you go. More dies, more components, more guns. It will snowball on you until it becomes an addiction. Just like sex drugs and rock and roll. It will be fun too. It just won't get you in as much trouble.
Heck you could even start with a Lee kit, it will cost less. Those kits will have everything but a manual. Buy several manuals. Get more load data from powder and bullet manufacturers.
You will not be wasting money starting with a single stage or a turret press. You will use it for years to come even if you have a progressive also.
You will find when you do start that you will be buying more equipment as you go. More dies, more components, more guns. It will snowball on you until it becomes an addiction. Just like sex drugs and rock and roll. It will be fun too. It just won't get you in as much trouble.
Thanks guys I've got alot of great information
See my post above.
It sounds like the volume you'll be shooting might support jumping into a nice progressive, but I'd rec starting with the inexpensive Lee single stage to learn the rope on.
You'll always be able to use it later and they don't cost much.
k i got my kit and book now what powder should i start with?
Buy a load data manual and look at the list of powders that can be used for what you want to load. Then try to find one of those powders and use it. Finding powder and bullets is the hard part of reloading right now. Get more than one powder from the load data list if you can.
Good luck with the powder.
