Lee Load master

[Jedabug92]

I'm not sure I understand the problem.

It just doesn't like Mag tach Primers and some cases don't like each other.

We still need to figure out the primer issue weather they are not seating all the way or if they are simply cheap primers.

I want to say it's the primers due to all the fail to fire I've had with them

Sent from the Armory

 

[Barn Dog]

Get a can of the spray air for cleaning keyboards to keep the mechanism free of powder. Keep the shell plate area clean of powder and your primer issues will get better.

 

[Jedabug92]

Get a can of the spray air for cleaning keyboards to keep the mechanism free of powder. Keep the shell plate area clean of powder and your primer issues will get better.

Yup I have an air can on my bench.

Secondary question.
I'm about to load .223 in the Master and I know how to prep rifle rounds with the resize and trim but how do I do that on the Load master?
Resize, trim and chamfer and debur THEN put it into the press or what?

Sent from the Armory

 

[CoyoteStalker]

Yup I have an air can on my bench.

Secondary question.
I'm about to load .223 in the Master and I know how to prep rifle rounds with the resize and trim but how do I do that on the Load master?
Resize, trim and chamfer and debur THEN put it into the press or what?

Sent from the Armory

Yes, that is exactly what I do...prep completely and then run in press. However, I just ran 223 recently and had so many problems with primers (expected with range brass) that I primed with the Lee safety primer first. Also, put the decapping die in stage 1 to set the ram stroke.

Also, for pistol cases some people will run a decapping die in Stage 1, then run sizing die in stage 2 (with decapping pin removed) to center the case better for priming. I did this method for a while, but got tired of bending decapping pins in the universal decapper. The cases don't center very well in the decaper and it is easy to bend or break the pin.

I don't know how to add photos here, so I can't show you my setup.

 

[Jedabug92]

Yes, that is exactly what I do...prep completely and then run in press. However, I just ran 223 recently and had so many problems with primers (expected with range brass) that I primed with the Lee safety primer first. Also, put the decapping die in stage 1 to set the ram stroke.

Also, for pistol cases some people will run a decapping die in Stage 1, then run sizing die in stage 2 (with decapping pin removed) to center the case better for priming. I did this method for a while, but got tired of bending decapping pins in the universal decapper. The cases don't center very well in the decaper and it is easy to bend or break the pin.

I don't know how to add photos here, so I can't show you my setup.

With 9mm 1 has deprime/resize, 2 primes no die, 3 is powder charge, 4 seats then 5 has no die.

With rifle it sounds like all I'd need on the turret is powder charger and bullet seater, is that what I'm gathering?
I don't crimp

Sent from the Armory

 

[CoyoteStalker]

With 9mm 1 has deprime/resize, 2 primes no die, 3 is powder charge, 4 seats then 5 has no die.

With rifle it sounds like all I'd need on the turret is powder charger and bullet seater, is that what I'm gathering?
I don't crimp

Sent from the Armory

Yes, but I would recommend placing a decapping die in there to set the ram height. This is so you can pull till it stops and your bullet seating depth will remain consistent. I always factory crimp, so my setups are:

Pistol - 1. Size, 2. prime, 3. charge, 4. seat, 5. crimp

223 - 1. empty decapping die, 2. nothing, 3. charge, 4. seat, 5. crimp

30-30 - 1. Size, 2. prime, 3. charge, 4. seat, 5. crimp

Every other rifle load I run on a single stage since I am only loading up about 20-30 of them anyways, and I more concerned with accuracy there too.

Hope this helps some!

 

[Jedabug92]

Yes, but I would recommend placing a decapping die in there to set the ram height. This is so you can pull till it stops and your bullet seating depth will remain consistent. I always factory crimp, so my setups are:

Pistol - 1. Size, 2. prime, 3. charge, 4. seat, 5. crimp

223 - 1. empty decapping die, 2. nothing, 3. charge, 4. seat, 5. crimp

30-30 - 1. Size, 2. prime, 3. charge, 4. seat, 5. crimp

Every other rifle load I run on a single stage since I am only loading up about 20-30 of them anyways, and I more concerned with accuracy there too.

Hope this helps some!

This helps a lot, thanks, but makes me wonder if I'm wrong by not crimping and if crimp effects accuracy.

I want my 9mm to hit anything accurately within a Uspsa course.

I want my .223 to hit center mass at 100 yards.

And I want my .308 to drop any and everything past 100. But the .308 is loaded on a single stage and more precisely then the others.

Sent from the Armory

 

[CoyoteStalker]

I have always used the crimp, but the Lee manual says "It eliminates the factory advantage. ...improves accuracy and your ammunition will function better."

 

[Jedabug92]

I have always used the crimp, but the Lee manual says "It eliminates the factory advantage. ...improves accuracy and your ammunition will function better."

Improves accuracy if crimped? Then my 9mm ammo will shoot Lincoln's head out of a penny....too soon?

Sent from the Armory

 

[JCW355]

Ok so I've loaded 600 ish rounds with it since Sunday, the only issues have been a few cases caught the one above and kinda jammed up and it loaded 2 primers sideways.
Mag tach primer but I read that Lee recommends CCI or Remington.

Sent from the Armory

The few things I learned with using my loadmaster is dont completely fill the bullet feed tubes and dont try to go too fast, smooth motion, not ram and jam. Early on I messed up the little plastic piece in the primer feed.