The real nose caps I've seen usually had wear on the edges, especially the forward edges and the tops of the ears, and not so much on the flat surfaces. What kind of pattern are you using?
The real nose caps I've seen usually had wear on the edges, especially the forward edges and the tops of the ears, and not so much on the flat surfaces. What kind of pattern are you using?
Try taking turns wiping down the finish with denatured alcohol on rag and using the steel wool. It has worked well for me in the past when I needed to age rings and mounts. With a little work it will leave you with a dulled grayish finish without stripping anything too agressively. After using the DA and re-lubricating, the finish should match the Swede's bluing pretty well.
Naval jelly will work too, but you have to use it very sparingly as it completely removes bluing and parkerized finishes very easily. The only time that I have used naval jelly to age anything was on suncorite painted and parkerized stock metal on a new replacement MK I stock that needed to match the worn silver colored finish on my Savage No 4.
Great suggestions, guys! I'll give 'em a try this weekend while the BLO dries...
Just more info here for milsurp junkies. When the M94s were imported into the US, the law at the time was that all rifles had to have an 18" or longer barrel. Since the M94 has a 17.7" barrel, an extension was attached to make them legal for importation. The extension was added in various methods with various amounts (or lack) of skill. Many were counterbored and if the barrel extension is removed, it leaves an ugly muzzle. We all know a few people with an ugly muzzle. 
As far as US collectors are concerned the extension does not effect the value of the carbine. But I'm a bit of a purist and would rather have it removed if it could be done cleanly.
Anyhow, mine appears to be welded on and then turned down on a lathe.
Though I have proper measuring tools, I performed a very precise measurement using a bent paperclip and I don't think this barrel is counterbored.
This should allow it to be removed and either leave a small bit of the extension just past the muzzle or go ahead and recrown the muzzle. We'll just have to see one we get it turned down that far.
As far as US collectors are concerned the extension does not effect the value of the carbine. But I'm a bit of a purist and would rather have it removed if it could be done cleanly.
Anyhow, mine appears to be welded on and then turned down on a lathe.
Though I have proper measuring tools, I performed a very precise measurement using a bent paperclip and I don't think this barrel is counterbored.
This should allow it to be removed and either leave a small bit of the extension just past the muzzle or go ahead and recrown the muzzle. We'll just have to see one we get it turned down that far.
I have this 8mm Turkish mauser that I bought about 10 years ago and it has pretty much been a safe queen.... I have decided to keep it and "pretty it up" some as well as make it earn it's keep at the range. It is a 1940 k-kale with wood stock as I guess all of them were..
Now my question.
I am think it needs to be cleaned up a bit. I have seen MANY methods to clean finish a stock/metal etc.
The stock looks to be plain old wood with no sort of finish of any kind... Metal looks to be in pretty good shape for 70+ year old rifle.
Recommendations on cleaning up the stock? I was really just thinking of using the linseed oil I have out in the garage and wiping it down a bunch...
You won't hurt my feelings if you tell me to just leave the cheap thing alone and go shoot it. I think I paid about $75 for it around 2002...
As I have seen a number of folks(me included) suggest a milsurp thread, has anybody heard if we on OSA are going to get one any time soon?
Now my question.
I am think it needs to be cleaned up a bit. I have seen MANY methods to clean finish a stock/metal etc.
The stock looks to be plain old wood with no sort of finish of any kind... Metal looks to be in pretty good shape for 70+ year old rifle.
Recommendations on cleaning up the stock? I was really just thinking of using the linseed oil I have out in the garage and wiping it down a bunch...
You won't hurt my feelings if you tell me to just leave the cheap thing alone and go shoot it. I think I paid about $75 for it around 2002...
As I have seen a number of folks(me included) suggest a milsurp thread, has anybody heard if we on OSA are going to get one any time soon?
Another reason why we need a C&R sub-forum.
Harley, I have a Turk that sounds much like yours. A couple years ago I decided to clean it up a bit. On milsurps, you have to carefully decide how much or how little you want to do to clean it up. On mine, i decided that Turks would probably never be among the really collectable Mausers so I proceeded to dress it up in a way that I wouldn't do on say a German WWII Mauser.
I did the Easy-Off oven cleaner method on the stock*. That will leave the stock with pretty much bare, thirsty wood and little to any stains. I then went over it with sandpaper down to 220 grit. Again, you wouldn't want to do this on just any milsurp so decide carefully. I then went over the stock with 5 (I think) coats of the Minwax Tung Oil Finish. This finish is not true 100% Tung Oil but in this case I wasn't after authenticity.
The finish on the Turk was very thin in places so I decided to clean it up a bit and apply some cold blue. I started the project awhile back and sidelined it so it's not completely finished but I'll take some pics and post them. I wish I had taken some "before" shots because the thing was just nasty.
I think the most important thing to consider on a milsurp is to never cut anything. A refinished stock is WAY better than a cut\sporterized stock.
*just one of the methods. The most gentle is the linseed oil scrub method. This is a mix of 4oz BLO, 4oz denatured alcohol, 4oz turpentine, 1oz ammonia. Use steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad to scrub it in. Might take 3 or 4 applications. Wipe down with mineral spirits and dry overnight before the next application.
I did the Easy-Off oven cleaner method on the stock*. That will leave the stock with pretty much bare, thirsty wood and little to any stains. I then went over it with sandpaper down to 220 grit. Again, you wouldn't want to do this on just any milsurp so decide carefully. I then went over the stock with 5 (I think) coats of the Minwax Tung Oil Finish. This finish is not true 100% Tung Oil but in this case I wasn't after authenticity.
The finish on the Turk was very thin in places so I decided to clean it up a bit and apply some cold blue. I started the project awhile back and sidelined it so it's not completely finished but I'll take some pics and post them. I wish I had taken some "before" shots because the thing was just nasty.
I think the most important thing to consider on a milsurp is to never cut anything. A refinished stock is WAY better than a cut\sporterized stock.
*just one of the methods. The most gentle is the linseed oil scrub method. This is a mix of 4oz BLO, 4oz denatured alcohol, 4oz turpentine, 1oz ammonia. Use steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad to scrub it in. Might take 3 or 4 applications. Wipe down with mineral spirits and dry overnight before the next application.
That sounds like some good advice...... I have a few old milsurps and I just can't see doing much of anything to them that was not the original intention when they were battle rifles..... Love the history behind them......
got a couple of mosin-nagants that still need the cosmoline,etc cleaned up
Sure wish we had a milsurp section, huh? Thanks.
I'd almost be happy with a milsurp thread sticky but I certainly wouldn't complain about a full milsurp section!
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