I am getting ready to build one of these, and I know that this thread is worthless without pictures, but I have none of the one I built a few years ago.
What you need:
Small bilge pump--300 gph is high end--less is better
Length of high quality bilge pump hose--about 3 feet--not the segmented type, the expensive type that looks like heater hose on steroids--marine places have it.
Eye bolt with the eye just big enough to accommodate the hose
Two large washers on the eye bolt
Self locking nut for the eye bolt--nylock works well
One very large old ice chest
One inch or larger wood bit, and one drillbit just larger than the eyebolt
Drill motor, wrench to fit the nylock nut
Plastic "restrictor" This has to fit inside the end of the hose and step the diameter down a bit. causes water to increase in velocity.
Appropriate clamps for both ends of the hose. Smaller the better
12 volt power source (trolling motor btty is what I used)
How it goes together:
With the wood bit, drill air holes in the top of the chest. I did not do this initially, and a buddy closed the chest and killed a bunch of nice stockers.
Looking at the ice chest from the side with the lid open away from you, drill the hole for the eyebolt about three inches from the front and about three inches down from the top. This is in the left end of the chest, and closest to you. near the side without hinges. Put a washer on the bolt and insert the bolt into the hole. Put on the other washer outside, and screw the nut down until the eye bolt can be turned with effort. Using a self locking nut keeps the adjustment relatively stable.
Clamp one end of the hose to the bilge pump and put the pump in the right hand corner on the hinge side. Do not secure it. It'll just find its own place.
Run the other end of the hose through the eyebolt and rotate the bolt until the end of the hose, which has been brought through about ten inches, is pointing slightly downward. The hose will bind against the front of the chest and this helps it maintain its position.
Insert the restrictor into the end of the hose and clamp it in place.
How to use it:
Put water from where you are fishing, no more than half full
Hook up power and adjust the angle of the hose to maximize "splatter" against the back side of the chest.
That's basically it. I messed with screens for a while, but just the factory cover on the pump turned out to be enough. I have moved up to 50 fish with one of these, in hot weather, and over a four hour time span, with no losses, and the fish were up to a pound each with none under a half pound. There was more fish than water, but they were frisky.
Larger pumps generate too much heat--built a smaller livewell with a 300 gph pump and it overheated the water. A large chest will cool by evaporation and stay ahead of the heat. The high level of surface movement keeps oxygen levels high. Fish zoom away when put in their new homes. A soft fine mesh net is a good accessory for removing fish. You can just set the pump out of the livewell and have easy access to the whole tank.
When I build the next one I will post pictures. This design is cheap, effective, and very portable.
This was the product of a good bit of experimentation. I need to move some fish for some friends, and need to replace the one I gave away several years ago.
Right now I am trying to find a big old cooler cheap, and will be posting a WTB.
I am wondering if any of you have built something similar and if you can offer ideas for further refinement.
What you need:
Small bilge pump--300 gph is high end--less is better
Length of high quality bilge pump hose--about 3 feet--not the segmented type, the expensive type that looks like heater hose on steroids--marine places have it.
Eye bolt with the eye just big enough to accommodate the hose
Two large washers on the eye bolt
Self locking nut for the eye bolt--nylock works well
One very large old ice chest
One inch or larger wood bit, and one drillbit just larger than the eyebolt
Drill motor, wrench to fit the nylock nut
Plastic "restrictor" This has to fit inside the end of the hose and step the diameter down a bit. causes water to increase in velocity.
Appropriate clamps for both ends of the hose. Smaller the better
12 volt power source (trolling motor btty is what I used)
How it goes together:
With the wood bit, drill air holes in the top of the chest. I did not do this initially, and a buddy closed the chest and killed a bunch of nice stockers.
Looking at the ice chest from the side with the lid open away from you, drill the hole for the eyebolt about three inches from the front and about three inches down from the top. This is in the left end of the chest, and closest to you. near the side without hinges. Put a washer on the bolt and insert the bolt into the hole. Put on the other washer outside, and screw the nut down until the eye bolt can be turned with effort. Using a self locking nut keeps the adjustment relatively stable.
Clamp one end of the hose to the bilge pump and put the pump in the right hand corner on the hinge side. Do not secure it. It'll just find its own place.
Run the other end of the hose through the eyebolt and rotate the bolt until the end of the hose, which has been brought through about ten inches, is pointing slightly downward. The hose will bind against the front of the chest and this helps it maintain its position.
Insert the restrictor into the end of the hose and clamp it in place.
How to use it:
Put water from where you are fishing, no more than half full
Hook up power and adjust the angle of the hose to maximize "splatter" against the back side of the chest.
That's basically it. I messed with screens for a while, but just the factory cover on the pump turned out to be enough. I have moved up to 50 fish with one of these, in hot weather, and over a four hour time span, with no losses, and the fish were up to a pound each with none under a half pound. There was more fish than water, but they were frisky.
Larger pumps generate too much heat--built a smaller livewell with a 300 gph pump and it overheated the water. A large chest will cool by evaporation and stay ahead of the heat. The high level of surface movement keeps oxygen levels high. Fish zoom away when put in their new homes. A soft fine mesh net is a good accessory for removing fish. You can just set the pump out of the livewell and have easy access to the whole tank.
When I build the next one I will post pictures. This design is cheap, effective, and very portable.
This was the product of a good bit of experimentation. I need to move some fish for some friends, and need to replace the one I gave away several years ago.
Right now I am trying to find a big old cooler cheap, and will be posting a WTB.
I am wondering if any of you have built something similar and if you can offer ideas for further refinement.
