Property Lighting - Two Questions

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HoLeChit

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Question one: personally, I have found LED retrofits to be superior in every purpose I have used them for. More efficient, longer lasting, oftentimes brighter.

Personally, if it were me, I would do away with the photocell, install a switch, and find an LED bulb to replace your current situation. You should be able to find the bulb needed via writing on the bulb or fixture. Less energy consumption, less parts to break, manual control over the light, which reduces light pollution.

Question two: I don’t have said lighting requirements, or land But I did operate, maintain, and set up flood lights in the Marines, I also designed power grids and lighting plans for bases, both in country and overseas in less than friendly sandboxes. I typically used these Magnum floodlight units:
9C65EAF4-8247-481B-9587-6A90020E49EF.jpeg

Theyre pretty similar to what you find in the oil and gas business and construction applications. Properly set up, in dark, flat environments, they can light up almost 2 acres of space. If I remember right they’re 1000W bulbs. To light up your required areas like day is gonna take a large and very power hungry light setup on a mast. How bright are you looking to make these 3-5 acre areas? Bright enough to work on your tractor in the middle of the field? Or just enough to see trespassers or the stray dog/cow? You wanting continuous lighting? Or just something you can switch on as needed?
 

Rooster1971

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Dude, you can get a suitable LED that will work with the existing metal halide ballast. Not sure where you live but there is a bulb store here in OKC. It’s what I did. As far as spots, I’m not sure on that to light that much area.
 

Firpo

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There truly are a whole host of options when it comes to retrofit LED lighting from direct plugin replacements to those that would have you disconnecting the ballast only using the existing socket to a complete fixture replacement. All have their pros and cons, and all require you’re knowing what light fixture you currently have or at a minimum the voltage if you’re replacing the complete fixture. This may help, do you know what breaker powers the existing fixture? Is it a single or double pole breaker?
 

Letfreedomring

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Snattlerake

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I’m afraid you’re going to have to get on a ladder and see just what you have, otherwise it’s nothing but a guess (IMO) and you’ll probably be making two trips to the hardware store. Could be High Pressure Sodium (yellowish light), Mercury Vapor (bluish/purple) or Metal Halide (white). Then there’s the wattage of the bulb which could be anywhere between 35-2000 watts. And those are just the most common possibilities for an older light fixture. Then there’s the voltage for the light sensor. Did the electrician happen to mention what that was?
Knowing the voltage would be a positive too. 120 vs 240?
 

Powerman620

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First question: I now live out in the sticks N/W of Bristow. Our shop light has never worked above the roll up door. Electrician doing work on our remodel tested the wiring and the light has power to it. He said it is probably a bulb or photocell issue and that home depot has replacements. He didn't get up on the ladder and check the light as he was doing work on our main house. This looks to be the same type of light the power/electric companies put up on their power poles you see all over rural properties. Problems I didn't ask the guy what brand of light or any details. Do any of you know typically what the name or type of lights these are? Everything i find on the interwebz is the new LED version. Also, would it make better sense to just replace with a new LED model?

Second questions: Those with rural properties, do any of you have larger flood/spot lights mounted on your roofs or eaves to shine out on to larger pastures or areas of land. Thinking of getting several large lights to light up a couple area that are 3-4 acres each. If you have such lighting, what are you using. Thanks for the replies to one or both questions.
Post a picture of light and I’ll tell you. If it hps or mvl , they make conversion bulbs that go to led
 

SoonerP226

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If you want to skip the photocell (and it's a 120V circuit), they make programmable switches that will turn the light on and off on a schedule. I had one on the light above my kitchen door--it was set to come on 30 minutes before sunset and go off at various times (f'rinstance, I had it stay on later on Saturday nights, when I was more likely to get back late from visiting my brother). There was some minor programming involved to set it up, but it automatically adjusts the "on" time based on the time of year, and maybe lat/long (it's simple programming through the buttons on the switch itself).
 

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