Nice job on the gravel work. I have a couple loads coming Monday for some washouts and drainage work. Then starting on road to my range and where I store hay. Its gonna need about 5 to 6 loads.
Sounds like a lot of work ahead for you....take breaks out of the heat....
By "destination unit," would you happen to be referring to what is called a "park model," that being one that seldom, if ever, gets moved? Check into those to see if their sewer system goes directly to the septic system of if there are "holding tanks" to hold grey and black water prior to dumping manually. Grey tanks are for showers and sinks while black tanks are for toilets.
I imagine you know this, but I'm just covering a base here. Do not leave the valve open on an RV's black tank to let stuff go straight to the septic tank. Doing that allows solids to build up in the holding tank, leading to what we call "the pyramid of death." If that occurs, getting rid of that pyramid takes time and lots of water.
Thanks for your post....The park model I was interested in does have holding tanks but they can be bypassed by flipping a switch...not sure how that would work out so I'll check into it.
I've not heard of such a system, so one would need to find out what "restrictions" might be caused by a valve for flushing. It is best if the toilet contents could go in as straight of a manner as possible to avoid plugging.
If one were to still use the holding tanks prior to dumping to the septic, try to make sure that the holding tanks have a separate flushing system to flush the tank themselves. Also, if using the holding tanks, keep in mind that many, if not most, tanks with "gauges" to indicate the level in the tanks have a tendency to fail, thus one wouldn't know just how full one's tanks were getting. One thing no one wants is for the black tank to get so full that it backs up into the toilet.
Made a new set of custom horn scales and peened them on for an old George Wostenholm Pipe Razor. Got it polished up, a huge chunk taken out of it and somewhat sharpened. Took it for its first test drive. Sharp but needs maybe one more hone and straping. Have another junker I might put some translucent blue acrylic scales made out of an old dollar store clipboard.
Who's game? And what is that hot scruffy stuff your trying to cultivate all over yur face? Nothing like a hot baby bottom smooth shave in the hot summer time to make you feel cooler. I'm gonna have to hold that dude in the avatar down, tie him up and get a scrub brush. He don't like baths.
Who's game? And what is that hot scruffy stuff your trying to cultivate all over yur face? Nothing like a hot baby bottom smooth shave in the hot summer time to make you feel cooler. I'm gonna have to hold that dude in the avatar down, tie him up and get a scrub brush. He don't like baths.
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I am a mug and brush guy but do not have a straight razor. Always wanted to try it though. How often do you have to resharpen? With the cost of razor cartridges these days shaving is expensive.
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You don't have to hone that often, depends on the hardness of your razor. You have to give them a good strapping every time. When that stops bringing one back and it feels uncomfortable its time to hone again. You really need 3-4 different ones if you go just all straight razor shaving rotating them out and have a hone day. Most razors will last a month or two between honings if you rotate them and how often you use them,.
The best way if you just want to save money is to find old Gillette safety razors or the newer brands in shave shops. Then you just order you 100 double edges razor blades that will last you quite a while and your shaving cost drops to about a nickle a shave or maybe 20 cents if you use premium blades like feathers or something and designer soaps.
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