I'm looking for people that reload 30.06. I'm not wanting to re-invent the wheel. My thoughts are Buy a few reloads from some different people. Run them through my rifle and see what shoots. Then either have "the Winner" sell me some rounds or I can get some dies and my buddy will load them for me. What's wrong with the plan?
It depends on who you ask. If you are selling reloaded ammo for profit, it could be construed as "manufacturing ammo" and you need an FFL. If people are just willing to sell you a few rounds to try, but they are not making a living at it, you're probably okay. But it's a bit of a gray area.
Personally, I never reload for other people to completely avoid the gray area, and probably more importantly because while I don't want to accidentally blow one of my guns up, I really, really, really, really, really, absolutely don't want to blow someone else's gun up.
Personally, I never reload for other people to completely avoid the gray area, and probably more importantly because while I don't want to accidentally blow one of my guns up, I really, really, really, really, really, absolutely don't want to blow someone else's gun up.
According to 18 U.S.C. 922(a) and 923(a); 27 CFR 478.41
if a person engages in the business of selling or distributing reloads for the purpose of livelihood and profit, they must have a manufacturers license.
if I remember right the fee to become a manufacturer is $30, and federal government will then require the required to pay a 14% excise tax from the proceeds of the sale. That excise tax is due to the Pittman-Robinson Act of 1937. Which is a good cause, because it’s what we all pay when buying guns and sporting goods, the proceeds fund conservation and wildlife stuff.
Chances are, the manufacturer will open themselves up to random checks and audits from the ATF, as well as increased tax exposure due to running a small business. Likely, they will have to get local approval to manufacture ammunition as well, as it is involving hazmat. As with anything tax and gun related I’m guessing that skirting the issues result in federal level felonies.
good luck, but I have yet to meet anyone who reloads that is willing to go through with this for someone else, whether it be the legal route or risking it.
if a person engages in the business of selling or distributing reloads for the purpose of livelihood and profit, they must have a manufacturers license.
if I remember right the fee to become a manufacturer is $30, and federal government will then require the required to pay a 14% excise tax from the proceeds of the sale. That excise tax is due to the Pittman-Robinson Act of 1937. Which is a good cause, because it’s what we all pay when buying guns and sporting goods, the proceeds fund conservation and wildlife stuff.
Chances are, the manufacturer will open themselves up to random checks and audits from the ATF, as well as increased tax exposure due to running a small business. Likely, they will have to get local approval to manufacture ammunition as well, as it is involving hazmat. As with anything tax and gun related I’m guessing that skirting the issues result in federal level felonies.
good luck, but I have yet to meet anyone who reloads that is willing to go through with this for someone else, whether it be the legal route or risking it.
Buy the dies and reload it yourself, it’s easy, fun and you get the best of both worlds. Because you can choose bullet weight, cases, powder and load data customized for your gun and you can save a little money doing it. I won’t reload for my friends as I don’t want the liability, I will teach them how to do it but I won’t do it for them. If you want to learn how most folks here don’t mind sharing info and teaching others.
"I want all the benefits of reloading without the hassle or commitment...so who will let me ride on their coattail?"
I think they call that being financially conservative but socially liberal lmao!!!
Anyone else want to discuss any felonious activities while we are talking about fuds?
I reload 30-06 and components are hard to come by.
I have plenty for me but to make some for another person and deplete my stock nope.
But i would be more than happy to share a few loads at a range with a person if they wanted to try them out.
I have done that many times for .308.
Now many times a load will work excellent at 100 yards and then fall apart at 200.
If you plan on shooting that 30-06 at 200 or say 500 yards you need to shoot that load at that distance.
I have had my .308 pring groups in the .2 and .3 area for a 178 AMax load every time I went out it printed tight groups.
Temps did not matter on that load and it bucked the wind.
I shot it at a deer nearly 200 yards out and missed the mark by nearly 12"
I decided to shoot it for groups at 200 yards and I was lucky to get 12" groups from that load.
Go back to 100 yard shooting that same day and it was back to tiny groups.
Odd things happen.
Most of my good at long distance loads shoot right around 3/4" groups at 100 yards (not impressive).. but at 200 they still group 3/4"
That is what I want.
That takes up a lot of time and components.
Brass prep is critical if you want tight groups.
Takes me about 4-5 minutes to prep each piece of brass and that includes annealing each time.
Measuring the brass takes up more time.
52.5 gr IMR4064 in an annealed R-P case with .002" or .003" neck tension NO CRIMP
CCI 200 primer and a 150 gr flat base bullet has got the job done in my 30-06's many for years.
That should put you right around 3000 fps depending on the gun used.
If you go .002" neck tension they all need to be .002" not .0015" and not .0025" as the groups will open up.
All necks are brushed with 0000 steel wool and swabbed out before bullet seating.
Or use a nylon bore brush.
Yes it makes a difference.
I wipe all wax off the bullets before seating and all powder charges are weighed on a beam scale.
Although the last part is not a need to if you get into an accuracy node you can volume measure the powder.
With all that said you can see it will take maybe 8-10 minutes to build 1 piece of ammo.
What is someones time worth to hand load ammo not even mentioning the cost of components and time/gas money spent trying to find those components.
Start with that load I mentioned above.
That one has held under 5" at 500 yards. Mossberg 100ATR factory pencil barrel. and Centerpoint scope.
Nothing fancy.
Works excellent in my friends Pump 30-06 and a 1903A3
I have plenty for me but to make some for another person and deplete my stock nope.
But i would be more than happy to share a few loads at a range with a person if they wanted to try them out.
I have done that many times for .308.
Now many times a load will work excellent at 100 yards and then fall apart at 200.
If you plan on shooting that 30-06 at 200 or say 500 yards you need to shoot that load at that distance.
I have had my .308 pring groups in the .2 and .3 area for a 178 AMax load every time I went out it printed tight groups.
Temps did not matter on that load and it bucked the wind.
I shot it at a deer nearly 200 yards out and missed the mark by nearly 12"
I decided to shoot it for groups at 200 yards and I was lucky to get 12" groups from that load.
Go back to 100 yard shooting that same day and it was back to tiny groups.
Odd things happen.
Most of my good at long distance loads shoot right around 3/4" groups at 100 yards (not impressive).. but at 200 they still group 3/4"
That is what I want.
That takes up a lot of time and components.
Brass prep is critical if you want tight groups.
Takes me about 4-5 minutes to prep each piece of brass and that includes annealing each time.
Measuring the brass takes up more time.
52.5 gr IMR4064 in an annealed R-P case with .002" or .003" neck tension NO CRIMP
CCI 200 primer and a 150 gr flat base bullet has got the job done in my 30-06's many for years.
That should put you right around 3000 fps depending on the gun used.
If you go .002" neck tension they all need to be .002" not .0015" and not .0025" as the groups will open up.
All necks are brushed with 0000 steel wool and swabbed out before bullet seating.
Or use a nylon bore brush.
Yes it makes a difference.
I wipe all wax off the bullets before seating and all powder charges are weighed on a beam scale.
Although the last part is not a need to if you get into an accuracy node you can volume measure the powder.
With all that said you can see it will take maybe 8-10 minutes to build 1 piece of ammo.
What is someones time worth to hand load ammo not even mentioning the cost of components and time/gas money spent trying to find those components.
Start with that load I mentioned above.
That one has held under 5" at 500 yards. Mossberg 100ATR factory pencil barrel. and Centerpoint scope.
Nothing fancy.
Works excellent in my friends Pump 30-06 and a 1903A3
If you really want to have custom ammo made for your rifle, I would recommend Copper Creek. It's pricey, but you will be able to figure out the perfect round for your needs and then have them load as much of it as you need.
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