So i got scope bit today......

[Spooln-Rex]

When you laid down in the prone, was your entire body directly behind the rifle or was part of it off to the side?

Do you muscle into the rifle (i.e. "fight recoil")?

Was your cheek firmly laid down on the stock (improper cheek wield will allow a rifle to bite you badly - rings that are the wrong height will force you to "crane" your neck up off of the stock or put your jaw-bone on the stock instead of firmly underneath your cheek-bone)?

In the prone, you want all of your weight behind the rifle (not off to the side) and you want to push your weight down behind the rifle like a sack of potatoes - i.e. dead weight).

You can push into the rifle to load the bipod first, but when you dig in and load the bipod, you should drop all your weight and that will absorb the recoil (don't fight recoil).

well as much of what i could tell i was all completely behind the rifle. Now i did notice a big difference when i would push up to the gun and load the bipod up as you are describing. but at first i was really trying to fight it. as for the cheek weld i am having to pick my head up somewhat if i lay it down completely on the stock then im losing maybe a 1/4 of the view in the top part of the scope if that makes since.

it was really cool though i know this thing will shoot sub moa with the right ammo and me having more practice with it. But today after sighting and getting bit a couple times i managed a group a little less than 1 1/2" so i was pleased.

I just got off the phone with one of the guys i work with and he was saying i can turn the rear eye piece separate from the magnification ring and that will increase the eye relief. any of you guys ever do that or know if this is true. The eye piece has like a jam ring and will turn out quite a lot after messing with it but i dont wanna mess up the scope by having it too far back or anything.

 

[ez bake]

well as much of what i could tell i was all completely behind the rifle. Now i did notice a big difference when i would push up to the gun and load the bipod up as you are describing. but at first i was really trying to fight it. as for the cheek weld i am having to pick my head up somewhat if i lay it down completely on the stock then im losing maybe a 1/4 of the view in the top part of the scope if that makes since.

it was really cool though i know this thing will shoot sub moa with the right ammo and me having more practice with it. But today after sighting and getting bit a couple times i managed a group a little less than 1 1/2" so i was pleased.

I just got off the phone with one of the guys i work with and he was saying i can turn the rear eye piece separate from the magnification ring and that will increase the eye relief. any of you guys ever do that or know if this is true. The eye piece has like a jam ring and will turn out quite a lot after messing with it but i dont wanna mess up the scope by having it too far back or anything.

Depending on the scope - it might have an eye-relief adjustment (don't know with that particular model of Bushnell).

A lot of folks don't realize that when you get the proper cheek wield, you eliminate a lot of issues with recoil.

I got some duck-tape and cut pieces of nylon webbing and stacked them on top of the stock until they fit my face perfectly and allowed for a perfect cheek-wield with proper sight (all the ugliness is hidden under an eagle stock-pack).

 

[criticalbass]

Recoil energy and felt recoil are not the same thing. In terms of felt recoil the .270 kicks more than it should. Most .270 owners (I have a friend in this group) shoot a few rounds before deer season to be sure the scope is still on, and one round to kill a deer. They don't mind a little recoil because they have little to compare it with.

I think the problem with necked down cartridges is what a gunsmith told me is "jet effect." Big case with little mouth means all the material in the case has to get through a small hole, making velocity at case mouth lots faster than bigger calibers in the same case. Not amount of kick, but shorter duration of kick, meaning more felt recoil.

This may be hogwash, but it seems to work in a lot of instances. CB

 

[HiredHand]

Can you post pics of your setup? You need to be able to have a proper and repeatable cheek weld when looking through the scope. You shouldn't have to raise your cheek off the butt stock to see through the scope. You might need a lower set of rings or need to raise the height of stock with something like a cheek eez pad. Aside from keeping the butt stock firmly in your shoulder, you should be pressing your cheek firmly onto the top of the comb.

 

[Spooln-Rex]

yea i'll get some pics up here in a bit of the rifle. i think if anything im gonna have to add some material to the comb like EZ was saying. I think thats where i have the main problem is not being able to plant my cheek firmly on the stock and allow my head and neck to move with the gun when fired. thus my head stays put and rifle contacts my fragile eye socket.

 

[Spooln-Rex]

OK so heres a few pics of the setup and me on the rifle.

now some close ups of the bases and rings:

heres a pic of the rear eye piece.

notice the grooved collar between the magnification ring and the eye piece i adjusted it back to get more eye relief. the eye piece was sittin on the side of the collar closest to the mag. ring so i got that pretty much taken care of it seems.

heres me on the rifle in the first pic is where i would prefer my cheek to be firmly pressed on the stock:

Now is where i have to be to get a full and clear sight picture. Kinda hard to tell but im having to rest the entire part of my lower jaw on the stock rather than my cheek. this is with the scope on 3x if i go to full power at 9x then i still have to move up some but its better than before. may still buy new glass for it regardless.

So what would you guys say i do about the cheek weld? i remember my grandpa putting adhesive mole skin pads on my shotgun when i first started shooting for the same reason but i dont know where or if theres a better solution out there or should i just do as EZ was suggesting with the duct tape and put a stock cover over that?

Thanks again for all the input guys i really appreciate it.

 

[doctorjj]

That looks like a lot of eye relief. Hard to believe it got you from there.

 

[HiredHand]

So, your rings are definitely not to tall. With the 2 piece bases that you are using you have little to no room to adjust the scope forward or back. Its definitely a matter of raising the comb height. If you get a padded butt stock cover like the stock packs from Eagle Industries that should help raise the cheek weld. Plus, you could add material under the butt stock pack if you need to bring the cheek weld a little higher.

I'd suggest that you invest in a good one piece base for your rifle, too. Another thing would be to get that left hand on the forearm of the rifle. With a light rifle and a large caliber you need more than just your shoulder controlling the recoil. If you want to add some weight to the stock, look under the recoil pad its probably hollow. You could fill the hollow space with Marine-tex or similar material to add a bit of weight.

 

[Spooln-Rex]

That looks like a lot of eye relief. Hard to believe it got you from there.

Well thats after adjusting it. before i had maybe 2" worth. So now its better and i think with some more practice i wont have anymore issues with that.


and i'll take a look at those stock packs and look into a 1pc base.

I'll tell you what though its a whole different deal when you sit there and take a nice long breath and get in the zone and squeeze one off and boooommmmm.........ping. definately starting to get hooked on this platform.

Thanks again for the help everyone.

 

[HiredHand]

Here's a little reading from 6mmbr about shooting from a bipod.

http://www.6mmbr.com/TacticalFroggyA1.html