So I picked up my wifes new RIA 1911

[twoguns?]

The Allen head screw in the trigger is a trigger over-travel adjustment screw.
This screw is used to adjust how far the trigger travels AFTER the hammer is released.

Be VERY careful with this. Usually these are set correctly at the factory. If you attempt to adjust it farther in you can easily cause the gun to fail to fire at all. With the trigger stop set too far in, the hammer won't release smoothly, or may not release at all.

Many people who use 1911's as an actual defense gun will either back the screw out more and use more Loctite to be SURE it won't move, or they simply remove the screw entirely to prevent any chance of the gun being deactivated by a screw that moves.
The trigger over-travel adjustment screw really belongs on a true Target Match gun where a failure won't get you killed.

A Series 80 1911 has several extra and/or different parts.
In the frame are two levers, one on the sear pin, the other on the hammer pin.
When the trigger is pulled, these interlocking levers are pushed upward to deactivate the firing pin lock.

In the slide is a plunger and spring firing pin lock, and a firing pin and extractor that are different.
When the trigger is pulled the levers in the frame push the firing pin lock up, unlocking the firing pin so the gun will fire.

If you disassemble the frame, it's CRITICAL that you get the levers back in place properly interlocked. If you fail to do so, when the trigger is pulled the firing pin will NOT be unlocked, the gun will not fire, and the firing pin and firing pin lock will be damaged.
This is a dangerous situation because unless you properly check the assembly, you have no way of knowing the firing pin will not unlock properly.

To test the Series 80 firing pin lock system, you can do the following.
With the slide off and the hammer DOWN, pull the trigger. The firing pin lock lever beside the hammer in the frame should be pushed up out of the slide.

Another way is to drop a pencil down the UNLOADED barrel, point the gun upward and pull the trigger. If the system is installed correctly, the pencil will be shot out the barrel with some force.

 

[CHenry]

 

[CHenry]

unless you know enough to ensure that the sear is not getting pounded to **** by the hammer, you should not be adjusting that from the factory setting.

It wasnt set from fatory, the screw was about to fall out. 2 different gun manufacturures told me I should take it out.
So whats your background on these?

 

[twoguns?]

Many people who use 1911's as an actual defense gun will either back the screw out more and use more Loctite to be SURE it won't move, or they simply remove the screw entirely to prevent any chance of the gun being deactivated by a screw that moves.
The trigger over-travel adjustment screw really belongs on a true Target Match gun where a failure won't get you killed.

That's a nice lookin gun, did those grips come with it?
RIA is making some nice looking stuff, JMHO

Evidently it can be set up for match shooting, just take the screw out for carry, but you've already been suggested that.

My experience is ....google-fu.....13th dan of the OG Fu clan....

LOL ok I just looked it up... 8)

 

[grwd]

in practice, it should be fine to remove the screw. I have to think that there has to be a decent youtube video on how to set this properly.

In a nutshell,

do this w hammer cocked, gun unloaded, yadda yadda

set the screw in until hammer wont drop when you pull the trigger (but hold the hammer with other fingers so it doesnt fall on its own power, just so you know it will drop)

then back it out 1/2 turn at a time until it will release

not done yet!

for about 2 or so complete turns after this(really depends on parts), the sear probably/may bump against the half cock of the hammer on the way down.

You feel for this by holding the trigger in, pinning it, as you ease the hammer down slowly, feeling for a little hitch which is the half cock notch. Its usually just before the hammer slides into the back of the slide, 1/4" or so from the firing pin

you want to go past this 1/2-1 turn to be safe.

The idea being, if the sear is clear of the half-cock notch when the gun cycles, it will be clear of the sear nose.

good luck


ps if somebody who knows this process well wants to proofread this, please do. Im a few snoots into a bottle of seagrams7

 

[grwd]

also, make sure you cankeep the set screw from moving, if not either swage the trigger slightly to tighten the aluminum, or just ditch it.

best stuff Ive found for this is vibratite

 

[CHenry]

Thanks for the advice. I think I'll remove the screw.
Those grips came on this model. That picture is not my actual gun of course but its the same exact model.

 

[twoguns?]

Thanks , report on how it functions, Please, I'll be looking for one of those....8)

 

[CHenry]

This is what I got and where I got it. No tax and free shipping to the lower 48. There was a $18 fee for paying with a CC. Total came to $597 ish. Did the transfer at Sooner State Pawn for $10.

Rock Island Armory - 51479 - Rock Island Armory 51479 M1911 A1 CS Tactical II Pistol .45 ACP 3.5in 7rd Parkerized

Tombstone Tactical
10011 N Metro Pkwy E
Phoenix, AZ 85051
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 800-606-0370
Fax: 928-458-7260

 

[OKCShooter]

It wasnt set from fatory, the screw was about to fall out. 2 different gun manufacturures told me I should take it out.
So whats your background on these?

I don't know if I'd take advice from Mike, word on the Street is that he's still trying to figure out this whole "1911" thing.