I started down the rabbit hole of expedition trailer planning a while back. I was thinking more a military trailer conversion with roof top tent. Then got distracted. Good luck!
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That's what I was wanting to do, but she wants something with hard sides and a door, and doesn't want to carry the dogs up the ladder. I cant blame her, but I kinda wish I just went ahead and built what I wanted a few months back before she had an opinion, lol.I started down the rabbit hole of expedition trailer planning a while back. I was thinking more a military trailer conversion with roof top tent. Then got distracted. Good luck!
haha yeah that wouldnt work too well. The puppy has another 12 months of filling out to do and she already cant carry him.Yeah, big dogs aren't fun with RTT. Ours has an annex room that drops down under it and the dog can stay there. After crying for an hour because he's not in bed with everyone.. lol
You can also use old truck or car frames for the trailer frame.
Pick up bed trailer etc.
For what you want.
You do need a welder though.
Ive been reading through the welder thread that just got revived. I certainly need one for more projects than this, just don't have the space.Sounds like a good enough reason to get a welder if you ask me =)
in regards to building my own trailer. Do i need to be terribly concerned with axle placement? For example, if I built a trailer like the one I posted a picture above, are there special considerations when placing the axle that far back? I'm concerned about it towing like crap, but I do want a little better departure angle as well as more space for the door towards the front.New truck frames have crush zones and need fixed there and newer stuff like 70's and up have a hump.
Get older in the 50's and you get a flatter frame to work with.
Usually hit up the farmers in the boonies for the good stuff.
Now there are a lot of free trailer houses to be had or cheap ones.
lets lay this out in a 5x10 trailer 1 full 20 foot stick angle iron for the side rails.
You should put a support every 2 feet you will have 6 sections 5 feet wide actually a tick less that is 1.5 sticks at 20 foot.
That leaves 10 extra feet of angle iron if you buy 3 sticks.
I put an extra where the axle is sometimes and then some by the tongue.
A stick of 2x3 angle for that.
That angle should be about $150.
Then fenders.
Wire and lights, shackles and jacks and the floor whatever that will be.
I am sure you have laid it out. I will post a few possible deals.
https://tulsa.craigslist.org/rvs/d/tahlequah-vintage-camper/7281429394.html
Free for doing some work.
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/for/d/shawnee-free-camper-for-junk-removal/7288443555.html
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/d/wynnewood-ft-flagstaff-fifthwheel/7285991258.html
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/for/d/harrah-camper-rv-as-is/7272978002.html
https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/spo/d/wanette-camper/7290796640.html
This last one has potential and $350 or best offer ..
IIRC (and I'm stressin' the ol' brain cells here), the axle should be moved back one inch from center of the trailer bed for every foot of bed length. Ignore the tongue length.in regards to building my own trailer. Do i need to be terribly concerned with axle placement? For example, if I built a trailer like the one I posted a picture above, are there special considerations when placing the axle that far back? I'm concerned about it towing like crap, but I do want a little better departure angle as well as more space for the door towards the front.
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