What did you do in the reloading room today?

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Forstner bits

How do you like those holes when finished drilling into wood?

Are they fuzzy at the top?
Are they flat on the bottom so the case does not wobble?

Were the bits the correct size or are the holes a bit on the almost too large side?

I have not tried those bits but I have reshaped regular steel drill bits and reshaped paddle bits.

I have changed the nose profile to get a flat hole and not a cupped up hole.
I also reduce the cutting diameter to make a nice fit of the case.

I found pine boards fuzz out a lot and Oak is better as is redwood.
I must clean some holes with a sanding roll.

What wood are you using?

That is why I am asking so many questions
 
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How do you like those holes when finished drilling into wood?

Are they fuzzy at the top?
Are they flat on the bottom so the case does not wobble?

Were the bits the correct size or are the holes a bit on the almost too large side?

I have not tried those bits but I have reshaped regular steel drill bits and reshaped paddle bits.

I have changed the nose profile to get a flat hole and not a cupped up hole.
I also reduce the cutting diameter to make a nice fit of the case.

I found pine boards fuzz out a lot and Oak is better as is redwood.
I must clean some holes with a sanding roll.

What wood are you using?

That is why I am asking so many questions
Forstner bits are the way to go. You will get a flat bottom hole and if your bits are sharp you will get a pretty smooth hole. Fuzzy edges and clean cut are associated with sharp tools and type of material. I would think hardwoods like cherry maple or walnut will deliver a cleaner hole.
I don’t think the case needs to be a tight fit just close enough so it does not tip much while using.
 
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How do you like those holes when finished drilling into wood?

Are they fuzzy at the top?
Are they flat on the bottom so the case does not wobble?

Were the bits the correct size or are the holes a bit on the almost too large side?

I have not tried those bits but I have reshaped regular steel drill bits and reshaped paddle bits.

I have changed the nose profile to get a flat hole and not a cupped up hole.
I also reduce the cutting diameter to make a nice fit of the case.

I found pine boards fuzz out a lot and Oak is better as is redwood.
I must clean some holes with a sanding roll.

What wood are you using?

That is why I am asking so many questions
I used oak, I have only done my 6.5 and the 1/2” bit was perfect. If I’d had a drill press it would’ve been better, surprisingly flush with no wobble. I’m apprehensive on the 45-70, they have such a large rim and much less on the body, I’m probably going to just stick to my Frankfort trays.
 
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How do you like those holes when finished drilling into wood?

Are they fuzzy at the top?
Are they flat on the bottom so the case does not wobble?

Were the bits the correct size or are the holes a bit on the almost too large side?

I have not tried those bits but I have reshaped regular steel drill bits and reshaped paddle bits.

I have changed the nose profile to get a flat hole and not a cupped up hole.
I also reduce the cutting diameter to make a nice fit of the case.

I found pine boards fuzz out a lot and Oak is better as is redwood.
I must clean some holes with a sanding roll.

What wood are you using?

That is why I am asking so many questions
And yes the holes are very clean. If I remember I’ll take a couple pictures
 
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Finished processing a couple of buckets of 9mm. 10-12 more to go.
E0F429B0-7914-46F4-9361-065DBA21F451.jpeg
 
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Finished processing a couple of buckets of 9mm. 10-12 more to go.View attachment 329801
Are you collecting brass or reloading it? It would seem that a bucket or two would be adequate for a tremendous amount of reloading.. Considering that a 5 gallon bucket holds about 8000 empty 9mm cases. How many rounds do you shoot a year?
 

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