Umm... Take it to a professional. It will be worth the money spent.
good call. screw perfessionals, i talked to h and h and they wanted 85 to work over an easy m and p trigger. i havent fired it yet btw, this is all by hand.
does anyone know where i can buy a sear hear locally so i dont have to pay or wait for shipping?
does anyone know where i can buy a sear hear locally so i dont have to pay or wait for shipping?
If your intent on doing it yourself, Barry (Dr. Greyson) or Mike (Olyeller) may have a sear they could sell you.
Like Wall said, you can talk to Dr. Greyson and see if he will do it for you... he's a great guy, and very talented, as is OlYeller.
I would just order one, prolly be in by Thursday... you can take the extra time to dig through the links I gave you and/or decide if you want to take it to somebody.
Both of those guys are great guys, no idea what it would cost you, and no idea how far out they are (work-wise).
traxxis, thanks for all the good links.
its not rocket-surgery, so i can do it. i just wasnt sure of all the processes.
also, what is the correct relationship of the sear spring to the sear and disconnector? my spring looks too wide for the main spring etc channel on the frame. the left leaf doesnt fit well on the edge of the trigger, the middle seems too short, and the right doesnt seem to make the beavertail safety work. i could figure it out if i just looked at it longer, but i am impatient. just moved so gotta alotta crap goin on.
thanks again everyone.
Take a picture of it from the left side, then take one from the back and post it.
Is this a new gun? Has it ever been shot? Are these parts new? It's not an Officer's sear spring is it?
You can take the right leaf, hold it at the base of that leaf and bend it back, this will give you more tension on the grip safety.
The middle leaf should hit the rear of the trigger bar, just under the sear legs, this will adjust the tension of the pre-travel (take up)
The left spring will have a small notch cut out of it, and it will push against the sear legs.
If you buy a QUALITY new sear (I recommend EGW), you don't really need to mess with cutting the angle, unless you have access to a sear jig. Don't bother if you don't have access to one...
If you need to buy a new sear spring, I would go with a Colt style, which will have some meat taken out of the leafs. Cylinder and slide is also a good bet.
The sear spring doesn't really touch the trigger, the middle leg sits on the disconnector and thus pushes forward on the trigger. The left leg sits on the sear and keeps it pivoted into the hammer.
What brand parts are you using? Are they a piecemeal of different parts from different companies?
If you're going to be messing with sear angles and hammer hooks you really need a few tools specific to the task.
Brownells used to sell a stone and file kit for trigger work, that combined with a set of adjustment pins, a sear jig and a helping of know how will get you to where you can do the work yourself.
I'm sure olyeller and Dr. Greyson will be able to help you out, if it were me I'd buy another part and try again, but that's just me.
What brand parts are you using? Are they a piecemeal of different parts from different companies?
If you're going to be messing with sear angles and hammer hooks you really need a few tools specific to the task.
Brownells used to sell a stone and file kit for trigger work, that combined with a set of adjustment pins, a sear jig and a helping of know how will get you to where you can do the work yourself.
I'm sure olyeller and Dr. Greyson will be able to help you out, if it were me I'd buy another part and try again, but that's just me.
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some of hte parts are used. came from sarco. bottom basement i know. not expecting miracles, just something to tinker with
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there it is slightly put together....
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some of hte parts are used. came from sarco. bottom basement i know. not expecting miracles, just something to tinker with
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there it is slightly put together....
Guys:
With all due respect to "saltydecimator," there is not too much I can say here. I have no problem with someone trying to learn a new skill...However, if he blows the cost of some parts, he is out the cost of the parts. They are usually not salvageable...nor should they be since you are dealing with a "fire control system" which is ultimately responsible for sending a bullet out of the barrel. What goes out of the barrel may be forever, or should I spell it with caps...
SD, I don't know what your means are and what you can or cannot afford, but if $85 is too much for an M&P trigger job you sure wouldn't want me to do it for $125. So, the way I see it your reasoning would have to boil down to be one of four things...(1)you can't afford it and if you can, (2) you don't perceive any value in another persons time, and don't want to spend the money with them (3)"it is not rocket science"so you don't believe that there is a learning curve, and it requires skill, or(4) all of the above. All of the above contains a lot of "arrogance" which in the long run does not get you as far as a bit of humility when asking for help.
With that said I do not want to leave you out in left field. So my best advice is invest in one of C&S' drop in Hammer,sear and disconnector kits and that will probably keep you out of trouble, and safe if you don't mess with the engineering that is built into the parts...but they do cost a few bucks.
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=1911DI
Bottom line is you get what you pay for and at this time in your 1911 knowledge base you have no business trying to file on ignition components. I am not saying this to be nasty, mean, or arrogant on my part, but to protect some poor helpless SOB that is in the wrong place at the wrong time if and when your pistol goes full auto.. So, with that said I implore you to please go to a knowledgeable 1911 'smith and have the work done properly.
Respectfully yours,
Barry
With all due respect to "saltydecimator," there is not too much I can say here. I have no problem with someone trying to learn a new skill...However, if he blows the cost of some parts, he is out the cost of the parts. They are usually not salvageable...nor should they be since you are dealing with a "fire control system" which is ultimately responsible for sending a bullet out of the barrel. What goes out of the barrel may be forever, or should I spell it with caps...
SD, I don't know what your means are and what you can or cannot afford, but if $85 is too much for an M&P trigger job you sure wouldn't want me to do it for $125. So, the way I see it your reasoning would have to boil down to be one of four things...(1)you can't afford it and if you can, (2) you don't perceive any value in another persons time, and don't want to spend the money with them (3)"it is not rocket science"so you don't believe that there is a learning curve, and it requires skill, or(4) all of the above. All of the above contains a lot of "arrogance" which in the long run does not get you as far as a bit of humility when asking for help.
With that said I do not want to leave you out in left field. So my best advice is invest in one of C&S' drop in Hammer,sear and disconnector kits and that will probably keep you out of trouble, and safe if you don't mess with the engineering that is built into the parts...but they do cost a few bucks.
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=1911DI
Bottom line is you get what you pay for and at this time in your 1911 knowledge base you have no business trying to file on ignition components. I am not saying this to be nasty, mean, or arrogant on my part, but to protect some poor helpless SOB that is in the wrong place at the wrong time if and when your pistol goes full auto.. So, with that said I implore you to please go to a knowledgeable 1911 'smith and have the work done properly.
Respectfully yours,
Barry
Well, there you have it. 
DBG does make a good point though about the M&P trigger job that I should have caught earlier.
I'm all about doing things on the cheap, and salvaging what I can... but that's when they're within normal spec, and being as how you've already filed on the disconnecter and sear... he is likely right about it.
When filing the hammer hooks, you must keep them square, otherwise you'll never have a smooth, consistent trigger pull.
Now, on to your pictures... is it just me or does the left leaf look like it's bent to the right?
Is that Sarco's "commercial" slide? Is it cut for Novak's already? I actually kind of like the look of the serrations.
DBG does make a good point though about the M&P trigger job that I should have caught earlier.
I'm all about doing things on the cheap, and salvaging what I can... but that's when they're within normal spec, and being as how you've already filed on the disconnecter and sear... he is likely right about it.
When filing the hammer hooks, you must keep them square, otherwise you'll never have a smooth, consistent trigger pull.
Now, on to your pictures... is it just me or does the left leaf look like it's bent to the right?
Is that Sarco's "commercial" slide? Is it cut for Novak's already? I actually kind of like the look of the serrations.
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