90 F150 problems

[montesa]

Is your front tank a 17 or 19 gallon? I’m assuming it’s a 17 since it’s a short bed.

Yes it's a 17. Front pump has been out for a good while. I'm lucky it has ran well up until now.

Learning how to test the coil tonight. If that passes and the ignition control module and fuel pump arent a success I'll start learning how to do the PIP test.

 

[montesa]

I plugged my multimeter into the hot and ground sides of the coil set on ohms. Got 0 ohms. So I must have a bad coil as far as I understand. It's probably original to the truck.

 

[montesa]

Another question for you guys. I'm replacing the tfi ignition control module that is located on the distributor. If I have to rotate the distributor I just need to mark the distributor base with the block correct? As long as I don't don't pull the gear out of the block the rotor position should be fine.

 

[montesa]

Put in a new ignition control module. Put in new coil. Still no spark. Used starting fluid and no pop at all. So as far as I know it's either the computer or the pip pick up coil in the distributor. Any other ideas?

I did verify the rotor is turning with the engine. I think I'll swap the distributor next since I'm pretty sure it's 35 years old.

 

[dlbleak]

Sounds like the pip sensor. I think you told me about the Amazon distributor that is complete for $69. Worth a shot.

 

[montesa]

Sounds like the pip sensor. I think you told me about the Amazon distributor that is complete for $69. Worth a shot.

Yeah I think I'll just swap the distributor. Got one on the way. After that I'll swap the computer. All these parts are original so anything new is probably good.

I still can't understand how to properly test pip. But it seems like the pip is a common problem. Tons of videos on it being the issue.

 

[montesa]

Ok. I verified power to coil. New coil. No spark from coil. No coil control so it's not getting ground. I verified by connecting test light to battery positive and the probe to coil control wire. No flashing light. So that leaves the pip sensor or the ignition module. I put a new module on it already.

So next is testing the PIP or pick up coil. I just bought wire piercing probes. Once I probe the PIP wire do I connect my multimeter to ground or battery positive. I'm assuming ground because when cranking the PIP wire should show 5v.

Any advice?

@swampratt
@dlbleak
@CHenry

 

[dlbleak]

I’m not sure if there is a good way to check PIP. My first thought was a timing light but I never had to test mine that way. In my mind, there would be no spark or it would be way off.

 

[CHenry]

Ok. I verified power to coil. New coil. No spark from coil. No coil control so it's not getting ground. I verified by connecting test light to battery positive and the probe to coil control wire. No flashing light. So that leaves the pip sensor or the ignition module. I put a new module on it already.

So next is testing the PIP or pick up coil. I just bought wire piercing probes. Once I probe the PIP wire do I connect my multimeter to ground or battery positive. I'm assuming ground because when cranking the PIP wire should show 5v.

Any advice?

@swampratt
@dlbleak
@CHenry

Hook a whatchacallit to the doohicky, test for cotenuity while holding your left leg in the air and squinting your left eye.
Lol, electrical issues are tricky and I'm not going to tell you something I don't know more about.

 

[CHenry]

testing the PIP. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - testing the PIP. - ran the self test and got this 14 X Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. the truck will turn over great but with absalutaly no spark anywhere. I...

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