Best 1911

[JD8]

What are you building?

I'm not building anything as I'm too ignorant.

Barry built me a full house 1911 on a Rock River frame and slide, C&S internals, 10-8 sights, welded on magwell and lots of other goodies. It's going to get NP3'ed soon.

BTW: Do you know what the Dr. uses for barrels? Trying to decide what to get for this steel challenge gun I'm building.

I had him use Nowlin in both my guns he has built. I'm not exactly sure what he prefers.

EDIT: There ya have it.

I got a GREAT deal on receivers. Picked up three Caspian magwell receivers for about $110 each. Also picked up a stainless GOVT slide for $45. All brand new, contract over runs. If I'm not mistaken, the slide must have been a Sig slide. The only thing I don't like about it is the external extractor... but for the price... you can't beat it.

I remember caspian selling those as a kit and it was a helluva deal IMHO.

 

[aeropb]

Yeah, apparently the nose of it was chipped and wasn't making contact any longer. He zapped a few thousandths back on it with the laserwelder. Its back in black.

Here are some photos of the EGW billet safety.

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Is that the one built on the Rock River frame that Chuck Rogers welded the magwell to it? That thing melted in my mouth and my hand.. and made my knees weak.

 

[aeropb]

Did this just happen?

no, it happened back in december

 

[Traxxis]

Stan:

With SS barrels Nowlin, Bar Sto, or Schuemann (in 416R and 416 stainless)
and in 4150 "steel" Kart. Hope that helps.

Barry

I'm glad you stopped in. Any suggestions on my builds? For the 9mm.... ramped or non ramped?

 

[JD8]

Now that's a stout safety.

Is that the one built on the Rock River frame that Chuck Rogers welded the magwell to it? That thing melted in my mouth and my hand.. and made my knees weak.

Yes. I drove to OKC and saw it today, held it and then drove home crying..... sigh.

 

[Traxxis]

I'm not building anything as I'm too ignorant.
Barry built me a full house 1911 on a Rock River frame and slide, C&S internals, 10-8 sights, welded on magwell and lots of other goodies. It's going to get NP3'ed soon.
I had him use Nowlin in both my guns he has built. I'm not exactly sure what he prefers.
EDIT: There ya have it.
I remember caspian selling those as a kit and it was a helluva deal IMHO.

For some reason, I felt adventurous. Add that to the fact that my wife wanted a Ladyhawk, or me to build her a 9mm 1911 close to its specs. I look forward to it though, I enjoy learning. Just wish there was a smith around here like John (Nowlin) was... I know several people that simply told him they wanted to learn, so they brought their parts up there and built their next to him as he built a customer's gun.

I didn't realize they sold some as kits... that would have been nice. These were frames only.

 

[JD8]

For some reason, I felt adventurous. Add that to the fact that my wife wanted a Ladyhawk, or me to build her a 9mm 1911 close to its specs.

Was in the same boat and went the EMP route. It's obviously no Ladyhawk but I figured it would work it up to that level eventually.

I didn't realize they sold some as kits... that would have been nice. These were frames only.

IIRC, frame, slide, barrel and some small parts.

 

[aeropb]

and he showed me a Colt I think is yours.

That one needs a lot of love. Headed to olyeller next for cerakote, french cuts, bevel job on the slide, and new sights.

 

[Dr. Barry Greyson]

Stan:

I would try non-ramped first unless the frames have already been cut for a .45acp which are much wider. If so then have them cut for a ramp. You can find instruction s for the ramp cut on Shuemanns website along with other installation info.. The ramp info is as follows:

Frame Modifications (Ramped Barrels Only)
(3.1) Clamp the frame in a mill vise with the frame rails horizontal. Install an 11/32 inch
or smaller flat bottom end mill. Set the machine zero at the top of the rails, then move the
end mill downward 0.315 inch and cut a slot aft from the standing lug slot to the magazine
well, centered between the rails. For best accuracy, the slot should form a tight slip fit with
the barrel standing lugs.
(3.2A) (Wilson/Nowlin Ramped Barrels Only) Insert a slide stop into the frame.
Measure the distance between the rear of the slide stop pin and the aft face of the standing
lug slot. Subtract this distance from 0.500. Clamp the frame in the mill vise with the
frame rails vertical, and using a 29/64 inch flat bottom end mill or the Nowlin ramped barrel
frame bridge cutter, move the aft face of the frame standing lug slot downward (aft relative
to the frame) by the resultant distance (typically about 0.160). Then clamp the frame
in the mill vise with the frame rails at 45 degrees from vertical. Chamfer the corner at the
intersection of the two above cuts. The intersection is chamfered its full length between
the sides of the frame standing lug slot and the chamfer has a width of 0.050 inch. Using
a flat needle file, round the two edges of the chamfer to match the rounded mating corner
on the barrel (1/16” radius).
(3.2B) (Clark/ParaOrdnance Ramped Barrels Only) Insert a slide stop into the frame.
Measure the distance between the rear of the slide stop pin and the aft face of the standing
lug slot. Subtract this distance from 0.600. Clamp the frame in the mill vise with the
frame rails horizontal, and using a 3/8 inch flat bottom end mill do a vertical plunge cut,
moving the aft face of the frame standing lug slot aft by the resultant distance (typically
about 0.260), with the end mill centered between the rails. Use a Dremel tool to round the
corner at the top of the cut to a 1/16” radius to match the fillet on the barrel standing lugs.
Barry

 

[Traxxis]

Well, if that's your opinion, I'll stick with the non ramped. I had them leave it cut for 9mm/.38.