Why not just get it professionally done. Ya it costs more, but it will actually last. My uncle DIY'd his among others and it ends up peeling up. My brother in law works for a company in OKC who does it. I don't remember their name. Garage experts of something like that
definitely read up on the prep. That seems to be the most important aspect....I didnt go with an epoxy because i never thought I'd be able to touch it up if need be, i.e. welding slag burning through it, or a chemical messing it up...
I ended up going with VCT which is easily replaceable...I've had to replace probably 5 tiles in 4 years or so...
GarageJournal is definitely a great place for info...
I ended up going with VCT which is easily replaceable...I've had to replace probably 5 tiles in 4 years or so...
GarageJournal is definitely a great place for info...
obviously you cant speak for them, but do you know if they offer any warranty on it? I will be building a very large ship in the next year or so, and would consider epoxy again under the right conditions...
I did my last garage with the rustoleum kits. I acid washed the cement, neutralized it, cleaned it, applied it, etc. I did it right to the letter. And it peeled up the first time hot tires got on it. I tried to touch it up, but it looked like crap. I have a professional epoxy finish on mine current garage and it has held up great.
+1 on the prep work. I have the rust oleum kit in my garage and no peel ups yet. (2 years ) I did do mine different though. On top of what the instructions said I diamond ground my floor first then acid washed and then coated. Couple tips if you are going to do it yourself. 1st when your rolling it on don't mash the roller really hard on the floor. Instead keep the roller wet so that you don't have lines. 2nd the more flakes the better. The more flakes you have down will hide the variances if there is any. Also if you will dump all the small powdery stuff out of the flakes and discard it looks better. When applying the flakes I found that if you take a handful and bounce it off the ceiling it will come down in a wider pattern and look more consistent. If you have and old pair of golf shoes that are spiked or any type of spiked shoe you can coat the floor and then walk on it with the spikes when adding the flakes and you wont see where you walked.
Just for information if someone just wants an oil proof floor with the original cement finish look, there is a product called "Diamond Hard" that is easy to apply that does a chemical reaction with the top layer of the concrete. If I have an oil drip that has sat for a week or so, just put a little gas on a paper towel and it will wipe right up. Water beads on it like wax. It does not make concrete prettier. You actually can not tell it has been treated, but it makes it tougher. It can not peal or wear off, dried spilled paint will just scrape off, nothing will soak into the concrete.
Easy to apply, just have to watch where you step when walking out during application, you can leave tracks on your driveway.
Easy to apply, just have to watch where you step when walking out during application, you can leave tracks on your driveway.
I did mine two years ago with epoxy kit from HIS Paint in OKC. It was expensive but haven't had any peeling or chips and my garage gets abused. I spent about 12 hours on prep but I am a little OCD like that.
