How can you tell reloads/handloads from factory new

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JCW355

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The " groove" on the bullet is the cannelure. The bullet is usually seated to the cannelure and crimped with factory ammo. Being this is one of my reloads I only allow a few thousands of free travel before the bullet engages the rifling. Thats why my bullet is out farther than factory ammo. Factory ammo has to accomodate all weapons so it would have a shorter over all length than most peoples reloads.
 

LtCCMPUnit42

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The " groove" on the bullet is the cannelure. The bullet is usually seated to the cannelure and crimped with factory ammo. Being this is one of my reloads I only allow a few thousands of free travel before the bullet engages the rifling. Thats why my bullet is out farther than factory ammo. Factory ammo has to accomodate all weapons so it would have a shorter over all length than most peoples reloads.

Did you use a Lee Factory crimp die on that round? It doesn't look like it has been roll crimped.
 

OUshooter

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+1 to G Law.

No amount of tumbling can hide the tell tale marks of an extractor. I usually get a pretty large helping of crap from my shooting buddies because my brass is shinier than factory, but you can tell they are reloads.
 

WhiteyMacD

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Are not all S&Bs berdan primers? If they are all berdan, I dont think they can.

I know nothing about their rifle ammo, but all the .45ACP i have put through my 1911 was berdan primed not boxer.
 

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