"the cylinder wall on the revolver is 1/1000 of an inch to thick and it won't cycle rounds"
What was the problem?
I understand cylinder and I understand 0.001".
Which part is the "wall" and how does revolver "cycle rounds" (I thought that was a term for ejecting stuff).
Were the rounds not seating and hitting the frame?
Hate to ask - but did you turn off the "child lock"?
P.S. Brazil is in America.
What was the problem?
I understand cylinder and I understand 0.001".
Which part is the "wall" and how does revolver "cycle rounds" (I thought that was a term for ejecting stuff).
Were the rounds not seating and hitting the frame?
Hate to ask - but did you turn off the "child lock"?
P.S. Brazil is in America.
Well..... The gun looks GREAT!
Call them and tell them you need warranty service and that you need a prepaid shipping label. They covered shipping on mine a couple weeks ago. And they ship to Florida. Not brazil unless it gets forwarded there
Call them and tell them you need warranty service and that you need a prepaid shipping label. They covered shipping on mine a couple weeks ago. And they ship to Florida. Not brazil unless it gets forwarded there
Sorry to hear. I had a couple of Taurus revolvers that were good guns. I bought a few auto that were junk. It was enough to keep me from ever buying another. I would get it fixed, sell it, and buy a Ruger or S&W.
That really sucks.
Can someone please explain what the problem with the gun is/was?
PLEASE!
PLEASE!
These are the same thoughts I had.
I have only owned one Taurus revolver. It is a 669 I got in a trade. It has become one of my favorite handguns.
It is a S&W 686 copy. From what I have read, they were made in the same factory at that time, because they were both owned by the same parent company.
Have had some Taurus revolvers and had no probs. I prefer Ruger or SW....
Sounds like the outside diameter of the cylinder is too large and it is dragging on the top strap and maybe underneath the cylinder on the frame.
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