I really like the rifle, but I am already wanting a better trigger!
Yeah, I found out the same thing real quick with my AR. If you want consistent accuracy at longer distances a better trigger makes a real difference.
I really like the rifle, but I am already wanting a better trigger!
I don't know the exact, I'll have to measure, but the Crossfire II is on a PEPR mount, in case ya'll know offhand how high that is.
I really like the rifle, but I am already wanting a better trigger!
Most guys that shoot long distances have a different "zero" for each yardage. Being as inexperienced as I am, I know with my AR at 100 yards I'll have 0 elevation, at 600 yards I'll have 48 clicks or 12 minutes of elevation. At 600 yards 12 minutes is 72". The sight setting for my Garand is a little different. At 100 I am 6 clicks up and at 600 I am about 30 clicks up.Ok, cool. So this is a common problem and I'm just inexperienced with zeroing rifles at any distance. Good to know... it's obvious I am going to need to buy a boresight and a rangefinder as well.
So.... when you guys are building or fine-tuning for super-long shots, say 400-1000 yards, where do you zero it? I assume that zeroing out that far is probably too inconsistent given range conditions and ammo variability, unless you are using fine-tuned super match or handloaded ammo built-to-purpose?
Obviously I have a lot to learn... I am excited though, it was nice using my first ever self-built long-range rifle and seeing good results - meaning it functioned perfectly, and I got good accuracy at 25 yards. lol
I'm a n00b. lol
Check out the 25m BSZ target here
The 25m BSZ will put you "on" at 300m. A 50m zero will put you on at ~200m.
The key here is that if you zero at 25m, you should get a good hit on target anywhere out to 300m with a center mass hold.
When shooting M885:
Z @ 50m: 25m -1.3", 50m 0.0", 100m +1.7", 150m +1.8", 200m +.2", 250m -3.4"
Z @ 25m: 25m 0.0", 50m +2.7", 100m +7.2", 150m +10.1" 200m +11.3", 250m +10.4"
As far as bore sighting goes - I get the best results going old school and actually sighting through the bore, especially since it's so easy with AR-format rifles. Just take the upper receiver off and put it in/on a solid rest, stand, vise, etc. then look through the bore and center it on a point of reference that's easy to see - I'll usually pick something like a bright red fire hydrant about a block away. Then - being careful not to move the upper - look through and adjust the sights (iron or optic) to be centered on the same fire hydrant. When you're done you should be pretty close - on paper at least - especially if the object you were using is approximately the same distance that you plan to use for your base zero. If you get the bore sight close enough, the only mechanical factors remaining to compensate for will be the characteristics of the specific gun and ammunition that you're using.... it's obvious I am going to need to buy a boresight and a rangefinder as well.
The numbers still seem screwy to me. I didn't think there was any more than maybe 4-5 inches difference in POI inside of 300.
Ok, cool. So this is a common problem and I'm just inexperienced with zeroing rifles at any distance. Good to know... it's obvious I am going to need to buy a boresight and a rangefinder as well.
So.... when you guys are building or fine-tuning for super-long shots, say 400-1000 yards, where do you zero it? I assume that zeroing out that far is probably too inconsistent given range conditions and ammo variability, unless you are using fine-tuned super match or handloaded ammo built-to-purpose?
Obviously I have a lot to learn... I am excited though, it was nice using my first ever self-built long-range rifle and seeing good results - meaning it functioned perfectly, and I got good accuracy at 25 yards. lol
I'm a n00b. lol
Most standard AR scope mounts are ~1.5" above the receiver rail.
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