good call, my shop floor was slightly slopped to a center floor drain I designed in the slab so I didnt do the gap.
I've typed it and deleted it probably 3 times now, but really if it's going to be a lot of trouble it may be better to just frame out the walls with 2x4s tied to the iron, and slap plywood on that.
Whatever you decide, remember to consult the old man first. He'll want to be involved in your project
Whatever you decide, remember to consult the old man first. He'll want to be involved in your project
It is prolly fine without the gap , but especially on outside walls if the temps are right and the humidity is high the concrete will sweat. Also gas heat can put out water vapor that will condense on the concrete.....
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I was planning to hold it off a 1/4" or so but since I do have some 3/8 or 1/2" scrap plywood I'll probably just use that for spacing to hold it off the floor. The C channel is spaced about 48" horizontally. To be clear. There is a C channel on the bottom at the floor, then one horizontally ringing the shop at 48" height (on center) and one at 96" high (on center). The vertical 4x4 columns/posts are at 10' spacing. There are a handful of other vertical red iron supports to screw off to but guestimating I have probably 8-12 vertical 1.5"x3" C channel I need to weld in to use as screw backing. I don't mind the extra work to cut and weld them in. Sorta looking forward to that part. There just happens to be a ton of areas that have an open field of no steel support that are 4'x10' that offers nothing to screw to, which is why I'm welding the verticals in. Maybe I'll do a write up on this project with pics and the chaos that goes with it.
Use these rather than welding in more red iron. The $9.00 ones.
Crap, these used to be $2 a stick.
Crap, these used to be $2 a stick.
Would you tack weld those in or cut them long and shot-pin or screw them in. Wheeler Metals has the 1.5"x3" red iron for $1.77/foot. A little more expensive but may take more time with the lighter gauge steel to fab to fit rather than just cutting and a couple beads of weld on the 14ga stuff. How would you install the above if you used them?
All the metal studs I've ever seen were screwed in place, usually with 1/4" long drywall screws.
I may have used a 1/4" gap, cant remember but I never saw the concrete floor sweat. It possible though.
OSB is about $10+ a sheet at Lowes right now. It's great for walls and roofs, not so much for floors unless you double up (or $27 for OSB T&G flooring). Smooth side out...couple coats of Kilz, and then paint. Really smooth-ish? Squeegee the Kilz between coats for 3-4 coats, then leave the last coat. Then use a thick ass paint/primer combo...looks just like a wall. I leave as is though, it's a barn so...
2nd the idea of pegboard. I used two of the 4x8 sheets. I selected the better strong er grade over the cheapest. I also purchased a chit-ton of all kinds of pegboard hooks. I'm really happy with that. I hate looking for something and have no idea where it is and waste time.
