Private sell or trade

[Mr.Glock]

I was just thinking about that last night. I'm assuming if I can get the wrench to come up I should be able to get code from the reader.

It's the 5.4 liter. I have seen what others are asking for on the 2009's so I think I'll investigate this further before selling. I'll list it here first when I do.

It sounds like I got my answer. Thanks to all for bringing some sense back into my head.

You guys really gave a lot of valuable input, I appreciate it.

Don’t know where you’re at, but I can pull the codes for you. Choctaw.

I’d agree on way to low offer. Let someone here that is need have a shot at it.

 

[retrieverman]

$5200 is an insult, and I would’ve walked away from the whole deal over it. I have an extremely low tolerance for car dealership games, and it wouldn’t be the first time I walked out and left a car salesman with his mouth hanging open wondering what just happened.

 

[Capm_Spaulding]

I have its Raptor counterpart. IWE issues are plentiful on this era, but thankfully are usually only time consuming and not difficult. It’s highly likely the solenoid itself, which is about a 10 minute job and $75 for the part, or it’s a vacuum leak which could be a 1-3 hour job of finding it, but $10 to replace vacuum hoses. There are of course other causes, but these are pretty common.

Anyway, it shouldn’t lower the value more than $500 tops if you decide to not mess with it. I’d say somewhere around $8000 is a decent price for your truck given its cosmetic issues as well. It’d sell quick at that price and you and the buyer would both be happy. Otherwise, fix it up, give it a full tune up and oil change, make sure all the little things are sorted and list it for $9500. Might sit for a little bit, but eventually someone would bite. Just my .02.

 

[SomeGuy]

I just took it out and put it in 4H and got the wrench symbol, making turns on the dry pavement didn't give me that stiff turn feeling or front tire trying to gain traction so it doesn't appear to be working. My scanner wasn't able to pull a code. I'll start looking at the possible solutions mentioned.

 

[montesa]

I just took it out and put it in 4H and got the wrench symbol, making turns on the dry pavement didn't give me that stiff turn feeling or front tire trying to gain traction so it doesn't appear to be working. My scanner wasn't able to pull a code. I'll start looking at the possible solutions mentioned.

Yeah I bet it's either that vacuum actuator that engages the hubs or the shift motor. I think shift motor. Especially since you don't put it in 4wd very often. You could try tapping it first.

 

[retrieverman]

Sorry OP this is a little off topic, but I can’t understand why so many people pay upwards of $20-30k+ for a side by side that they have to trailer to where they want to use it when a nice truck like this can be had for under $10k.
I’ve gone the small used truck route myself and am questioning why I didn’t do it years ago. I still have a Ranger and a 4 wheeler, but they almost never leave the house anymore. When they do finally crap out, I more than likely won’t replace the Ranger, but I use my 4 wheeler around my place too much not to have one.

 

[Lucky]

I'll be buying truck from a dealer next week as soon as the funds are available to me. The dealer offered me $5200 for my 2009 F150 with 156,000 miles on it. Until today, I thought I could get $9500 easy, that was until they took a look at it and found that when they put it in 4 wheel drive it gave them the wrench symbol. I do remember seeing the same thing at one time, but the last time I used 4x4 high it wasn't there and worked well on the snow and ice. It could be something simple, or major. I'm wondering if I should take the $5200 or try to sell privately for maybe $7200 as is. It has some other issues, which is mainly cosmetic such as the clearcoat is gone on the roof, and a few spots on the fender and hood which I was tempted to do myself and then driver side mirror has a plastic piece broken off which is a $150 to replace both side mirrors with aftermarket mirrors. The other issue what I believe is the blend door actuator which I just replaced twice, the second time with a OEM part. I'm thinking take the $5200 and be done with it, but $2000 is $2000. Any advice from someone who has been there?
View attachment 524763

Would you share the name of dealer that you was working with? Or PM me

 

[O4L]

Over the years I have found that Edmunds.com shows pretty accurate vehicle appraisals if you want to enter your info there.

 

[Rez Exelon]

Thinking about it, if you sell it here then whomever buys it will be able to have a lot of fun telling people that they bought their truck from "some guy on the internet" and when pressed they can say "No really, I got it from someguy on the internet".

Knowing that humor is in the world should be more than enough to make you want to sell here.

 

[montesa]

Dealerships don't make offers without having a pretty good idea what it's worth, and they're in a position to have a pretty good idea what it's worth. It's literally what they do for a living.

If you don't want to mess with it, take their offer knowing it's costing you money for the convenience.

If you want to get maximum return for it though, sell it yourself.

Yes but that also means they pay less than half what it's worth. Considering he's trading, he's probably not even getting 5200 for the truck. I do fully understand how they work. That's why I say unless a day of your time isn't worth 5500 bucks, go ahead and trade it in.