Tacoma spark plugs

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SoonerP226

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Also these are iridium plugs and they are supposed to wear much more slowly.
FWIW, I got 150K miles out of my factory plugs, which, IIRC, were Iridium plugs. The boxes for the Motorcraft (often OEM'd by NGK) iridium plugs I just put in my truck specifically said not to regap them due to concerns about damaging the electrode; I believe it was because iridium electrodes are more brittle than traditional or platinum electrodes, but I don't recall where I read that.
 

montesa

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FWIW, I got 150K miles out of my factory plugs, which, IIRC, were Iridium plugs. The boxes for the Motorcraft (often OEM'd by NGK) iridium plugs I just put in my truck specifically said not to regap them due to concerns about damaging the electrode; I believe it was because iridium electrodes are more brittle than traditional or platinum electrodes, but I don't recall where I read that.
I have heard that too. Lots of things to consider.
 

Bocephus123

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FWIW, I got 150K miles out of my factory plugs, which, IIRC, were Iridium plugs. The boxes for the Motorcraft (often OEM'd by NGK) iridium plugs I just put in my truck specifically said not to regap them due to concerns about damaging the electrode; I believe it was because iridium electrodes are more brittle than traditional or platinum electrodes, but I don't recall where I read that.
believe your correct not supposed to re gap!
 
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I checked, didn’t see any aluminum. Would these be from pinging and possible erosion of valves or the head?
Aluminum from the pistons during "Pinging"
You should not be anywhere close to touching the Iridium parts during the gap setting procedure.

I think most of this so called do not regap stems from people using one of those round tapered tools you slide between the 2 ground electrodes and bend up in a terrible spot to make the gap bigger.

That is not the way to set the gap.
I mean you can but there are other ways to set it that only touches the back section of the ground strap.

That do not regap is to cover they butts if someone dorks up a perfectly good plug.

 

montesa

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Dunno about the others, but its pretty well suggested you do your timing belt/waterpump if you have the 3.4L . And lower ball joints. OEM only on the ball joints. Aisin on the Timing belt/waterpump stuff.
I have the 2.7. I have done ball joints once but about to do them again. You’re right, OEM only
 

montesa

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So I ended up replacing all of the coil packs. They were all cracked. Truck is running perfect.

Thought about making a new thread but I figured people would find the question here. Is anyone else a purist when it come to parts? A certain brand or factory only? For instance, I only use the coolant the truck came with originally. I even buy DOT3 from the dealership.

Only things not factory I’ve used is some high end gear oil, manual transmission fluid, transfer case and rear diff. Also a shifter cup from Marlin Crawler.

I’ll need new suspension soon and I’ll go with aftermarket but stick with Toyota bilstein shocks. Use all OEM bushings and fasteners.
 
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Dunno about the others, but its pretty well suggested you do your timing belt/waterpump if you have the 3.4L . And lower ball joints. OEM only on the ball joints. Aisin on the Timing belt/waterpump stuff.
Definitely. However, from what I understand the 3.4 is not an interference engine (like the 4.7 v8). So IF the timing belt gave out it wouldn’t ruin the engine.

Just a little peace of mind, if you’re like me and putting off of timing belt job at the moment on a 3.4 haha!
 

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