Treated vs untreated fence?

[Ready_fire_aim]

given your circumstances, I would say, just go with the cheap Pine… all the recommendations for Cedar are true, but it’s significantly more expensive. If you plan to sell the house in a couple years, don’t bother.

The green treated stuff is definitely more prone to warp as it ages. Also, the typical pressure treatment is really more for insects/ground contact… not necessarily for protection against open air exposure to the elements.

 

[Roy14]

Linseed Oil is your friend, if ownership long term and want longevity.

That’s what I seal axe handles with. Dipping them in PVC pipe and letting them soak is a good way, but usually takes more time than I have. On a new trailer floor it’s what I’ll use, but for a used one it gets motor oil cut with diesel.

 

[p238shooter]

Don't know what your background is. Treated lumber is NOT what it used to be. Several years ago the EPA forced a change and now it is close to worthless paying the extra $ in my opinion. I had used Thompsons on my deck for many years, last two $60 cans I bought a year ago had some kind of "New Improved" white gunk that would not hardly spray and is needing a recoat already for my deck.

I have boards down outside my shop building that had used motor oil to soak in and some that were sprayed with a couple coats of diesel, one when they were new and another coat at the end of the summer a year later somewhere around 30 years ago that look better. Yep ceder if you want it to last a long time or use pine and spray with diesel in a sprayer after it has been out in the weather and sun a little while to dry the moisture out just as you would Thompsons. It will not smell much different than the old Thompsons stuff if you are worried about what you neighbors might think and will soak in to last longer. Be sure you coat all sides and yes you might need to hit it again for a final touch up at the end of the summer after the pine ages a little, but overall it will save you money.

 

[Buck98]

I agree with Ready_fire_aim and p238shooter. Treated lumber is really only for ground contact intended for insect control. IMO I believe cedar would be the better option and not worry about sealer. Good luck!!!!

 

[5pt56]

I just finished this project. Pine pickets, ground contact 4x4 posts. Blend of both. I'm planning on making this one last so I'll prime and do a stain/paint blend sealer. I think with your timeframe just run pine pickets and ground contact 4x4. Ideally you want a 2 inch gap at the bottom like someone else said.

 

[JEVapa]

bleh

 

[HoLeChit]

I would rather go with cedar, but everywhere I’ve looked cedar is $12.50/linear foot or better. With my limited budget, timeline, and simply needing to keep the dogs in the yard, I can’t justify the higher price.

 

[CHenry]

Spend the little teeny tiny bit of extra dollar(s) and get cedar. Not pine anything. You won't regret it. You will regret pressure treated. It is sh*t that after several years, you'll be replacing pickets, and wondering why your fence is everything but straight when you know it was straight when you put it in.

I've been down this road a couple times, never will I use pressure treated fencing ever again. Won't waste the time or $$ on it; I'll put up hog wire before I do.

Besides, cedar looks better and takes stain better.

I made this mistake 4 years ago and your right, I regret it.
I'd also recommend not buying cheap panels. Buy real treated 2x4s and screw each picket on with 6 screws per picket. Run a string line on top of each post in 8' lengths so your pickets follow the ground slope (is any are there) check for plumb every 3-5 pickets and adjust slightly if plum gets off a tad. As already stated, dont place pickets on the ground, use a spacer like a 1x4 or such.

These pickets are only 1 dollar more than pressure treated and I would recommend you use this or similar.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Severe-Weather-Common-5-8-in-x-5-1-2-in-x-6-ft-Actual-0-59-in-x-5-5-in-x-6-ft-Natural-Cedar-Cedar-Dog-Ear-Wood-Fence-Picket/4323595

It will take 18 pickets per 8' of fence and that comes to $53 plus the 2x4s and a box of screws.

I've built a LOT of fences and what I am telling you here, with metal post and all, will likely outlast you (I dont know how old you are though) while looking nice the entire time. Some sealer every 5 years helps add years also.

 

[CHenry]

Don't waste your money on Thompson's water seal. It's good for a year at best. At my old house I had them use Cabot deck stain and it still was beading water 4 years later. That was cedar fence too which does soak more sealer in.

I used to use used motor oil cut with diesel fuel in a sprayer on the deck of my 16' trailer, it kept that deck (packed outside all year) like new for 17 years before I sold it. Also used diesel on the plywood panels lining the inside of my 3 sided loafing shed. Smelled for a little while but not long. I wouldn't hesitate to use diesel on a fence.

 

[CHenry]

That’s what I seal axe handles with. Dipping them in PVC pipe and letting them soak is a good way, but usually takes more time than I have. On a new trailer floor it’s what I’ll use, but for a used one it gets motor oil cut with diesel.

yep!