ar hiccup

[Shootin 4 Fun]

You might suggest to John that they add that information to their website.

 

[KurtM]

You might want to go read the web site about the springs, especially the part about instructions to properly prep the stock parts to work properly, and the warning about light hits. You see he already tells you about the stuff I mentioned but hey why read the stuff the guy who makes it sends with his stuff. That is crazy talk....it says in The first sentence " it can be used" why worry about the other stuff he says?

 

[huntermett]

Ok guys I took trigger spring and disconnector spring out to compare to stock springs and it appears that the jp disconnector spring is shorter than stock I dont know how much this could effect the hiccup that I had

 

[uncle money bags]

It may contribute, but it wont have anything to do with your trigger not moving into its forward position when you let go of it.

 

[doctorjj]

Yeah, I'm with U.M.B. on this one. It is well known in the competition shooting community, that if you use J.P. "yellow springs" with stock components you have to cut off the back hook on the hammer to lighten it to avoid light hits and failure to fires! Also you need to run a J.P. disconnect spring or a lighter spring in order to avoid trigger reset problems. Yes J.P. says their springs can be used with stock components, but it is recommended that you lighten a few things. Ask me how I know! I have been a sponsored shooter for J.P. since 1999 and have worked closely with John on a number of things over the years

A good example of this is you "can" run roller rockers in a "stock" engine, but they aren't made for that application unless you got a whole bunch of other specialty parts to work with them.

To me, those are install problems. Ha! If you don't read what JP himself says about them and you don't do what he says to allow his product to work, then you installed it wrong in my book. I've had zero issues from anything that I have bought from JP and believe me, I've bought a lot for myself and friends that I've built for.

 

[KurtM]

Dr. J.J. for the win!

Actually the disconnect spring plays a HUGE part in reset.....wait.....wait....WITH LIGHT SPRINGS!!!

 

[Shootin 4 Fun]

I read the install instructions on the website website, there is no modification of parts required. Drop in and use Rydol sear/hammer grease on the engagement surfaces, the Rydol is marketed as a "trigger job in a jar". I'm not arguing the fact that lightening the hammer will help with reliability of the system, I'm just pointing out that these springs are marketed as drop in replacements.

Yes, a short spring will effect the reset of the trigger.

 

[uncle money bags]

... to get it to reset I either pushed forward on the trigger or turned the safety about half way on and you could here it clik and reset

This tells me that the disconnector is functioning, but that the trigger is not moving far enough to disengage the disco and engage the sear. That click he is hearing is the sound of the trigger and sear coming together and only happens when he pushes the trigger forward or when the safety forces the rear of the trigger behind the disco down, which accomplishes the same thing.
Of course i may be wrong and would appreciate being corrected if i am missing something.

 

[NikatKimber]

Looking at his picture, and his description of the rifle as a "super varminter" it's not a Mil-Spec trigger, it's one of the RRA type two stage triggers. Hence my concern with the JP springs not being compatible with his trigger.

I have the JP yellows in my AR, with a standard Mil trigger in it. Did have to lighten the hammer for 100% reliability with hard primers, but never had issues with trigger reset. From the few pictures I could find of the RRA-type disconnector spring, it looks longer than the Mil one. Which would mean little to no pressure on the disconnector.

 

[uncle money bags]

Looking at his picture, and his description of the rifle as a "super varminter" it's not a Mil-Spec trigger, it's one of the RRA type two stage triggers. Hence my concern with the JP springs not being compatible with his trigger.

I have the JP yellows in my AR, with a standard Mil trigger in it. Did have to lighten the hammer for 100% reliability with hard primers, but never had issues with trigger reset. From the few pictures I could find of the RRA-type disconnector spring, it looks longer than the Mil one. Which would mean little to no pressure on the disconnector.

Are you sure about the trigger? it looks like the hammer sear in red. the blue is on the right side of the disco showing the curve and direction. please excuse the hasty ms paint.
I admit i assumed he installed a standard FCG when he said he built the lower and didnt include any info on the FCG.