Ford Flat head V8 ( where to buy)

[tyromeo55]

I've got a 38 ford that has a cracked block. Are there any places that sell ready to run flat head V8's? How about just finding a block and parts? I know that there are too many variants to list and that I'd be way better off just putting a 302 or something in there but its just not the same. Any advice would be much appreciated

 

[flatwins]

I don't know where to buy one but flatheads are so cool. Pretty sure there's a local flathead club here in Tulsa and if so there would most likely be some guys in the club with some spares.

 

[FullAuto]

There is a place in OKC called Reno Rod & Custom that work on that kind of old stuff. They have a quite a bit of old parts and if they don't have what you're looking for, they should be able to point you to a place to find it. You might give them a call. Sorry, I don't have their number. I don't know them personally, but was in there several times working an insurance claim for a '38 Model A that had caught on fire and was being rebuilt. It had a 350 TPI in it though.

 

[willystruck]

This guy might be able to help. Just down the road from me. Good luck!
Rex at Flatmotor Research 918-801-2046. Located in Grove, Oklahoma

 

[acp]

You can try the classifieds at www.jalopyjournal.com, go to the "Hamb" link (hokey ass message board) at the top of the forum. If you like old cars you will have some fun.

 

[71buickfreak]

The hamb used to be a good site, but now it is full of trolls of and posers, not many of the real enthusiasts left over there. Most of the real gearheads have stopped posting on the hamb.

H&H flatheads in Cali is the premier flathead sourse. but if you just want a running flatty, I might be able to find you one.

 

[Rooster1971]

I'm totally with you on the flathead in an early ford. Nothing looks or sounds better than a hoped up flatty.

I perfer the later 8ba 49-53. They have more cubes, and easier and cheaper for parts. I would try and find a mercury if you can. They have a 4" stroke with 255ci vs. Ford 239ci

If you can find a known good block that has already been checked, this is the way to go. They are notorious for cracking between the valve seat and the cylinder. I had a friend that had a few blocks cleaned and magnetic particle tested before he got a good one. It was a frustrating experience for him to say the least.

I've heard guys say you can pin the cracks, but I have no idea on this and would definitely want someone to know what they are doing. It is not cheap to build up a flathead. I saw one a couple weeks ago at a swap that was hopped up with 3 deuces, stroked and isky cam and the guy wanted $6000.

I was wanting a flathead for my A coupe, but couldn't scape up the scratch and opted for a 283 out of a 60 chevy. I know, I know not near as cool but alot cheaper to build and more power. Not as much soul.

My pop has a few 8ba motors he might let go of one if your interested. I have no idea on the condition though. They all would need checked. Pm me if interested.

There were a few French army surplus motors floating around for awhile, but they are starting to be hard to find. The French produced them until fairly recently. They are a bit different, sort of a blend between the early and late flathead.

Good luck! If you can pull it off you definitely won't regret it.

 

[71buickfreak]

Where is the block cracked? I wasn't paying attention to the original post. I can repair most cracks using the Lock N Stitch method.

 

[Rooster1971]

I'm curios also where the crack is. If I was a betting man, I'd venture to guess it's in one of the middle cylinders between the valve seat and cylinder. Really common on one that has been overbored. The middle cylinder's share a common exhaust port and the heat leads to cracking if I remember right from my grandpa.

You could maybe pin and stich after removing valve seat and then install oversize seat and machining down and new cylinder sleeve. If it's been overbored too much, may have problems down the road if you didn't sleeve the other cylinders.

Ii wish I could contact my grandpa. He would know. He was a machinist and engine builder and could build a flatty. I lost the number to the graveyard though. I miss him and his knowledge more and more everyday.

 

[tyromeo55]

Thanks all who responded thus far. The car was my dads uncle's car from before I was born. before us it had a older restoration and I remember stories of it being "fast but took a mile to stop" ( the stories came from 80 + yr old men and cars seem to get faster the longer time passes since they had been driven).

We acquired it 15 or 20 years ago and it didn't run at that time. We were told then that the block was cracked due to inadequate winter storage. I remember looking at the dip stick and the oil was milky so I just went with it. I was just there to push it on the trailer and steer it into its corner.

A newer drive train could be cheaper and make quite a bit more power but I dont think I could live with myself if I did it. My research is telling me that I could have one of two motors in my 38. I'll have to count head bolts to see which version. I've got a body guy looking at it to see how much I'm going to need to put into that and If I can get a ballpark on the motor work (and all id within budget) then I'll go ahead and pull the motor out and get it to someone that can tear into it. If it matters Id say there is a good likelyhood that the motor has never been rebuilt.


BuickFreak / all.... Assume that the block is toast. What is a good budget to get something and get it put together? Do you do motors for a living?