This too is what I would try next if the battery is good. You can basically use a set of jumper cables and route them to the starter just like the battery/starter cables are ran ( this will eliminate the possibilty of a bad positive or negative cable ) Its a little bit of a tight fit so be carefull routing the jumper leads down there and make sure you get it on the right terminal or the starter could engage. GM side post batteries seem to be worse at hiding corrosion and that corrosion can travel down the cable ruining it too.
This too is what I would try next if the battery is good. You can basically use a set of jumper cables and route them to the starter just like the battery/starter cables are ran ( this will eliminate the possibilty of a bad positive or negative cable ) Its a little bit of a tight fit so be carefull routing the jumper leads down there and make sure you get it on the right terminal or the starter could engage. GM side post batteries seem to be worse at hiding corrosion and that corrosion can travel down the cable ruining it too.
Well guys it ISNT the battery. I went to Auto Zone and they tested it. It was bad( well you guys were half right...lol). Bought a new @%&*$% Battery..installed it and same darn problem. The good Zombie has offered to come help me after he gets off work so maybe that might do it. The only thing that would make this little scenario any better would be a foot of ice on the ground or 110 in the shade. Sometimes I wish I had a horse. I could at least shoot it when it goes lame.
Okay, there should be 2 positive cables on the battery, take them off, clean them seperately, take the lead spacer out make sure there is no corrosion, the inside is fed off one cable the starter is fed off the other
--Mech
--Mech
I had the ice on the ground when I was dealing with the problem. Looking back, I think it was later in the Winter than though (more like January). Hell we had so much ice/snow in OKC last year there is no telling when exactly it happened.
You might try putting the gear shift in neutral and try it. The neutral safety switch goes out sometimes.
The ignition switch broke three times on my Trailblazer. The original was "heco in Mexico" as well as the 1 year guaranteed Oreilly part, which lasted 13 months. Now I have a "lifetime guaranteed" Oreilly made in Japan ignition switch. These plug in to the key mechanism inside the steering column, separate from the key. There is also a "theft system" which flashes the security light and kills the car that are real fun to replace too. So, if all else fails, I vote for the ignition switch. Cable ends do corrode up too, which would have been my 1st choice.
The ignition switch broke three times on my Trailblazer. The original was "heco in Mexico" as well as the 1 year guaranteed Oreilly part, which lasted 13 months. Now I have a "lifetime guaranteed" Oreilly made in Japan ignition switch. These plug in to the key mechanism inside the steering column, separate from the key. There is also a "theft system" which flashes the security light and kills the car that are real fun to replace too. So, if all else fails, I vote for the ignition switch. Cable ends do corrode up too, which would have been my 1st choice.
Ok. so far....I took the two cables off the positive side of the battery and cleanes them thoroughly. I traced one back to the fuse-relay center. There is a four prong gray square fuse that is labeled a starter relay. Is it possible this is it? Ever hear of one going bad? Is there a way to test it? Im at wits end. You guys have got some great ideas going though. BTW I have a jumper I made years ago for an old VW (hmmm always worked on that pos too) anyway I beleive it is a 12 guage wire with two alligator clips on each ens. Would this be big enough to test with or do I need thicker gauge wires?
I figured when you said you heard a loud click you were hearing the starter, maybe not. The relays click too but they are pretty quiet. You can test them but it would probably be easiest to substitute that relay with another one. there should be a couple of those relays in the fuse box.
All you can do with that jumper is go from the little terminal on the starter to the larger one. You can use a set of jumper cables to "overlay" the bigger starter cable that goes from the battery to the starter, if you want to try to eliminate a bad cable.
Hey guys ... Zombie and Planefixer are here so maybe the three of them can figure it out.
The click is loud ... really loud. Which is why this non-mechanically inclined gal thought it was the starter at first although I was puzzled as to why there was no growling (like the celenoid --sp?-- going out) first. Been there done that.
I think they are checking the relay thingees now ...
Wish us luck ... and we'll get back to you ...
The click is loud ... really loud. Which is why this non-mechanically inclined gal thought it was the starter at first although I was puzzled as to why there was no growling (like the celenoid --sp?-- going out) first. Been there done that.
I think they are checking the relay thingees now ...
Wish us luck ... and we'll get back to you ...
Similar threads
