New to 10/22s what to upgrade

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Wolf44

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I went KIDD, and will not go that way again......granted that isn't the norm, but I didn't like the coolade.

If you need "help" with Optics, let me know.....
 

rawhide

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Also for scope would the vortex crossfire II be a suitable scope that's not over/ under kill, I mean these guns only have a top range of 125' but I will probably keep it around the 25-50' range.

A couple of years ago I read the RFC forums on 10/22 until my eyes bled. Things could have changed but the preferred scope without breaking the bank was the Mueller APV http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Mueller_APV_Black_p/mapv451440.htm
I'm not an optics expert but I like mine.
 

Wolf44

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I was less than impressed with the Customer Service - sure they responded, but when you feel you need to talk to the 'man', well........... it gets old talking to those that didn't machine or design the parts.

For the money, when my ruger 10/22 locks BX or BC mags tighter than a new 1200$ KIDD...... and some other minor personal fitment/build beefs with the final product..... put an end to my KIDD ownership and loyalty. Goes against the grain, sure, to each his own.
 
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henschman

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The only thing I think that absolutely HAS to be upgraded on them is the sights... either with some good adjustable irons, or some sort of optic.

To answer your question about the factory mount, it is OK if you're using short optics and/or ones with short eye relief, like the small fixed 4x scope that is on one of mine. Otherwise you will probably want an extended cantilever type scope mount that will allow you to get the scope far enough forward for good eye relief when you're in a proper position.

If you install a scope, it necessitates a cheek riser of some sort, or an after market stock with a raised comb that is fitted to you and your optic height.

The next most pressing mod for me would be sling studs, 1 1/4" swivels, and a good shooting sling. Of course that might not be as high on your list if you don't use sling-supported shooting positions and/or carry the rifle in the field.

Those are really the only things that greatly increase the usefulness of the rifle for me. Anything after that is just tinkering and gaming IMO. That said, improving the trigger pull would be the next thing I would go for. I have used the Volquartsen target hammer in a couple, with good results -- my only complaint is that the trigger reset spring it comes with is too weak to give a positive reset, and I always re-used the factory spring. Free floating the barrel can help consistency of your groups. After that, you're really into stuff that you have to have match ammo to notice any difference with.

FYI everything I say comes from the perspective of a guy who mostly uses .22s as training rifles to simulate battle rifles at Appleseed events, and for shooting critters. I don't do any bench rest or match shooting with them.
 

gfercaks33

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I have been wanting to do an apple seed event with this gun are you the person who runs them?

I was thinking about adding a sling in the near future but I want a wooden stock for that.
 

okietom

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One of the best upgrades for a Ruger 10/22 is another Ruger 10/22. They are more fun when there are two of them.

Ya, I know, you only have one trigger finger.

Who doesn't have a twin fantasy?
 

MisterGrubbs

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One of the best upgrades for a Ruger 10/22 is another Ruger 10/22. They are more fun when there are two of them.

Ya, I know, you only have one trigger finger.

Who doesn't have a twin fantasy?

http://www.tacticalinc.com/ruger-1022-gatling-machined-aluminum-p-571.html

gatlinggun.jpg

Need I say more, sir?
 

henschman

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I have been wanting to do an apple seed event with this gun are you the person who runs them?

I was thinking about adding a sling in the near future but I want a wooden stock for that.

Yep, I am the State Coordinator for Project Appleseed here in Oklahoma. Let me know if you have any questions or need anything.

As far as slings go, you will be surprised at how truly stable you can get using nothing but the sling and your body to support the rifle. You can get real close to bipod-level stability, only it adds less weight and bulk to the rifle and can be used in any position.
 

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