Standard reticle? Zeroing has nothing to do with a reticle, are you referring to MILS vs MOA and understanding the difference?
I don’t know enough about scopes, nor do I shoot enough at any real distances to justify expensive ones. I do like Leupold, and have several, but the most expensive one is a VX-3i model. I have never even looked through any of the more expensive models.
The only difference in first and second focal plane is that the reticle gets bigger as magnification is increased on FFP scopes and stays the original size on second focal plane scopes. The zeroing of the scope doesn’t change.
I have both but prefer second focal plane for the majority of hunting situations.
The zero doesn’t change. The value of the subtensions change in a SFP when changing magnification. In a SFP, if you measure something at 10x, then crank it to 15x, the size measurement will be different. In a FFP it’s the same at all magnification settings as the reticle is…. in the first focal plane.
Nothing wrong with a Leupold, they have made vast improvements over the last 15ys. And as long as your glass works for you and your needs then I say why not!!
One of the reasons that I like FFP over SFP is that I don't have to remember which magnification is required for the reticle sustentions to be accurate (I have two SFP scopes and although they have the same magnification range, they have different "true" values - one is at full magnification and the other is at 10x).
On the whole, I buy scopes based on what I want to do with the "system". My benchrest rifles have high magnification SFP scopes but I only shoot them at 50 yards and 100 yards. My ELR rifles have FFP scopes with high elevation ranges on 60MOA bases.
My current overall favorite is the Vortex Razor Gen III. 36x is fine for the level of bench shooting that I do and I can dial out to 550 yards (50 yard zero) with the 60MOA rail on my Vudoo. The turrets are locking (which I prefer) and are extremely repeatable. I have a Zeiss S-3 to try out when the weather gets better - it has 44 mils of internal adjustment versus the 36 mils in the Razor.
My preference is milrad because most of the guys shooting long range with me are using their PRS guns and we are all using the same language for adjustments.
I prefer first focal plane. I have one second focal plane but only because I got an insanely ridiculous steal of a deal on it. It is on my Ruger 10/22.
The “average” Oklahoma deer hunter really doesn’t need a scope with the following:
Impeccable glass quality
30mm or larger tube,
50mm object lens,
Anything above 10x
First focal plane,
Zero stop,
Exposed turrets,
Parallax adjustment,
Illuminated reticle,
Mil radian, BDC, or any other ranging/hold off reticle (think Christmas tree),
1/8” MOA adjustments,
The “average” Oklahoma deer hunter probably needs a scope with the following:
Good to very good glass,
Reliability, Reliability, and Reliability
1” tube,
40mm objective lens,
4 to 10x magnification,
Easily definable reticle (KISS)
Rock solid warranty
Glass quality is most often in the eye of the beholder and difficult to quantify but there is a huge difference in cost. When viewing in a comparison test, especially in difficult conditions, one will see the difference.
Reliability comes with time on target. Any scope can crap the bed and it usually doesn’t happen over time. Most often it happens between shots. Generally your more expensive scopes are more reliable but they can fail like a cheap watch too. I have a Vortex Razor that didn’t track correctly. If I had only shot 100 yards I would have never noticed it. If your rifle is shooting good groups one day and the next day under the same conditions your groups with the same load go to heck, chances are it’s your scope or mounts. I’ve seen a Kahles scope do it. I have a Hawk scope on an RWS springer and the glass is mediocre at best but the thing tracks true and has done so for years.
Buy what you need for your given discipline and sacrifice your wants until you can’t live without them.
Impeccable glass quality
30mm or larger tube,
50mm object lens,
Anything above 10x
First focal plane,
Zero stop,
Exposed turrets,
Parallax adjustment,
Illuminated reticle,
Mil radian, BDC, or any other ranging/hold off reticle (think Christmas tree),
1/8” MOA adjustments,
The “average” Oklahoma deer hunter probably needs a scope with the following:
Good to very good glass,
Reliability, Reliability, and Reliability
1” tube,
40mm objective lens,
4 to 10x magnification,
Easily definable reticle (KISS)
Rock solid warranty
Glass quality is most often in the eye of the beholder and difficult to quantify but there is a huge difference in cost. When viewing in a comparison test, especially in difficult conditions, one will see the difference.
Reliability comes with time on target. Any scope can crap the bed and it usually doesn’t happen over time. Most often it happens between shots. Generally your more expensive scopes are more reliable but they can fail like a cheap watch too. I have a Vortex Razor that didn’t track correctly. If I had only shot 100 yards I would have never noticed it. If your rifle is shooting good groups one day and the next day under the same conditions your groups with the same load go to heck, chances are it’s your scope or mounts. I’ve seen a Kahles scope do it. I have a Hawk scope on an RWS springer and the glass is mediocre at best but the thing tracks true and has done so for years.
Buy what you need for your given discipline and sacrifice your wants until you can’t live without them.
Why is it that when someone reviews or posts an expensive scope, rifle, handgun or any of the myriad of other items that are available to the shooting community, almost immediately out comes the comments about being foolish for buying that item? I have lots of scopes, some ridiculously expensive and others such as Arken that are $ 300.00. Believe me, I was poor many years ago and would never have been able to buy 95% of the stuff I now own. Sure, maybe a $ 300.00 scope will bring down an elk just as well as a $ 7000.00 Hensoldt. I firmly believe that most guys would buy expensive items, night vision, thermal, etc. if they had the means. Sometimes that takes years to achieve. Can anybody honestly say that having nice stuff is something you wouldn't want or strive to get someday? Anyway, hope this year brings many good things to all us gun nuts.
These are the same folks who would buy a Vega, Pinto, or Gremlin today. Value is in the underachievement.
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