Ok here are some pics of the installed bolt lift kit and I will explain the process and try to narrate a couple pics. It is very simple really.
Ok so it is simply the back end of a 38spl/357mag casing that is cut off, leaving the primer pocket and lip of the casing. This can be easily accomplished by inserting the casing into a standard 3/8" drill and tightening the chuck down. Then take a hacksaw and spin the drill. You simply hold the hacksaw blade on the case and let the drill do the work. If you concerned about getting to far back, hold the blade 3/16" or say away from the edge of the lip and cut there. You can the remove any excess on a bench grinder or with a file. At that point, you get a small ball bearing that fits in the primer pocket. I use a 5min epoxy to set this in place. A typical BB works well.
Now it's gets a little more technical, because you have to make room for this. I trim the cocking peice sleeve, however, it depends alot on what type of Bold Assembly Screw (BSA) you have. This rifle has a flat BAS, so there was no need to mess with anything else. I have had some that have a quide peice on the BAS that protrudes into the cocking peice sleeve and if this is what you have, you have to remove the guide down to the threads.
So you measure the length of your cocking sleeve, write it down. Measure the thickness of your newly made lift kit casing from the bottom of the lip to the top of the bearing. Once you have this accomplished, then you should be ready to reinstall all your parts.
Now for as far as the amount that is reduced, I have no way to test this, but I can say that you will probably feel the difference. However, you will definately feel a difference if you put a longer bolt knob or "tactical" bolt handle on and polish certain areas on the bolt. The total package makes a huge difference! I can post the areas to polish if there is interest in that.
Ok so it is simply the back end of a 38spl/357mag casing that is cut off, leaving the primer pocket and lip of the casing. This can be easily accomplished by inserting the casing into a standard 3/8" drill and tightening the chuck down. Then take a hacksaw and spin the drill. You simply hold the hacksaw blade on the case and let the drill do the work. If you concerned about getting to far back, hold the blade 3/16" or say away from the edge of the lip and cut there. You can the remove any excess on a bench grinder or with a file. At that point, you get a small ball bearing that fits in the primer pocket. I use a 5min epoxy to set this in place. A typical BB works well.
Now it's gets a little more technical, because you have to make room for this. I trim the cocking peice sleeve, however, it depends alot on what type of Bold Assembly Screw (BSA) you have. This rifle has a flat BAS, so there was no need to mess with anything else. I have had some that have a quide peice on the BAS that protrudes into the cocking peice sleeve and if this is what you have, you have to remove the guide down to the threads.
So you measure the length of your cocking sleeve, write it down. Measure the thickness of your newly made lift kit casing from the bottom of the lip to the top of the bearing. Once you have this accomplished, then you should be ready to reinstall all your parts.
Now for as far as the amount that is reduced, I have no way to test this, but I can say that you will probably feel the difference. However, you will definately feel a difference if you put a longer bolt knob or "tactical" bolt handle on and polish certain areas on the bolt. The total package makes a huge difference! I can post the areas to polish if there is interest in that.
Ok, got the stock in today and thought I'd post a couple pics of what I'm working with there. I'm still waiting on the new bdm, but it's coming together. The barrel is getting shipped off to have the barrel threaded, crown recut, and a brake installed.
So as you can see, the stock has already been inletted for the cdi bottom metal and is almost ready to go. As soon as I get the barrel back, I can skim bed the action to the stock and hopefully eliminate any of the slight imperfections in the aluminum bedding block. I think I'm also going to bed the scope base to the action so it fits perfectly as well!
So my next question is what do you guys use to bed with? Devcon, acraglass, etc?
So as you can see, the stock has already been inletted for the cdi bottom metal and is almost ready to go. As soon as I get the barrel back, I can skim bed the action to the stock and hopefully eliminate any of the slight imperfections in the aluminum bedding block. I think I'm also going to bed the scope base to the action so it fits perfectly as well!
So my next question is what do you guys use to bed with? Devcon, acraglass, etc?
Ok, got the stock in today and thought I'd post a couple pics of what I'm working with there. I'm still waiting on the new bdm, but it's coming together. The barrel is getting shipped off to have the barrel threaded, crown recut, and a brake installed.
So as you can see, the stock has already been inletted for the cdi bottom metal and is almost ready to go. As soon as I get the barrel back, I can skim bed the action to the stock and hopefully eliminate any of the slight imperfections in the aluminum bedding block. I think I'm also going to bed the scope base to the action so it fits perfectly as well!
So my next question is what do you guys use to bed with? Devcon, acraglass, etc?
Dude - that looks pretty sweet.
Lots of folks swear by this:
http://www.marinetex.com/
What scope/rings do you have in store for this beast?
With the last example of your duracoat, I'd say you're going to have a sharp looking rifle man.
MarineTex is awesome stuff but that part about it sands like wood, Bull it sands more like a granite countertop! I did my last 308 with it and don't get me wrong it's good stuff. I like the Accraglass just more user friendly and have done several rifles with it with good results. Devcon well never used it for a bedding job but have used it for other things and I'm sure it would be close to the MarineTex.
I have a Stevens 223 that I bought for a project and now you guys are making me want to start it but I already have one in the process that I need to get competed first. Looks like your going the right direction! keep us posted on your progress. Later,
Kirk
I have a Stevens 223 that I bought for a project and now you guys are making me want to start it but I already have one in the process that I need to get competed first. Looks like your going the right direction! keep us posted on your progress. Later,
Kirk
Optics are not set in stone yet, but I have a Primary Arms 4-14x50 mildot that going on it for now, mounted in a set of Seekins rings. I like the Vortex Viper that I have on my 7mag, however, I'm looking at something with less magnification for this probably in the 2.5-10x range. I'm thinking a luepy, but not sure yet.
I'm pretty sure that I'm gonna use the acraglass this time and see what it works like. I've never tried Marine Tex, but have heard alot of good about it. I've also heard alot of people using Devcon for bedding. We'll see how that turns out.
I am pretty happy with the stock, but I'm pretty sure that it's gonna get painted OD green, however, that will have to wait until I get it all set together. I may keep the camo that was painted on it when I got it!
I'm pretty sure that I'm gonna use the acraglass this time and see what it works like. I've never tried Marine Tex, but have heard alot of good about it. I've also heard alot of people using Devcon for bedding. We'll see how that turns out.
I am pretty happy with the stock, but I'm pretty sure that it's gonna get painted OD green, however, that will have to wait until I get it all set together. I may keep the camo that was painted on it when I got it!
Okay so I got all my other parts in today and put a mock up together. I think it's going to look ok. I'll get the rest of the build up shortly!
Here are a couple of teaser pics from the mock build up.
I'll continue this shortly!
I'll continue this shortly!
Here is the finish of the project. I disassembled the rifle after the mock build to make sure all the parts were going to fit together correctly. I then put the barrel in my "barrel vise" which basically consistes of a vice and two blocks of wood. At that point, I set up my headspace with a go gauge and then put a peice of clear packing tape on the back of the gauge, which effectively turns it into a no-go gauge.
This is a pic with the go gauge inserted and the bolt closed
This is a pic with the tape on the back of the go gauge and the bolt closed as far as it would go without putting any real force on it.
This all went fine. I put the new recoil lug on and screwed the receiver onto the barrel. Then I set the headspace. Once the headspace was set, it was time to tighten everything up. I would strongly suggest an action wrench, but you can do without. I did because when I went to order an action wrench, they were on back order and I could not wait any longer, so I cheated alittle.
So with the barrel in the vise and the headspace set, I ran the barrel nut down by hand and made sure that the set screw on the backside of the recoil lug was in the notch on the receiver. Make sure that you put your barrel nut wrench on after you put your barrel in the vise and before you screw your reciever on! I used a 1/2" rachet on my barrel nut wrench and I used a large flat blade screwdriver to keep the receiver from turning. Tighten up you barrel nut and then recheck your headspace. At that point, I had a nice barreled action and it was time to install the stock.
First I had to install the CDI BDM. This is simple as the stock was already inletted for this particular BDM. It just dropped right in with a small amount of force. At that point, I turned my barreled action over in the vise and resecured it. The stock dropped right on and I installed the two receiver screws. These were then tightened down as hard as I could get em with the nut driver that I had. I will torque these later to 65in lbs.
This pic shows the CDI BDM being set into the stock.
This pic shows the stock installed on the barreled action, with the bolts installed, tightened, and the AICS mag.
Ok, so basically we have a functioning rifle at this point, but wait there's more! The next step was to mount and setup the scope. I chose a Primary Arms optic because, well it was cheap and I'd heard alot of good things about them. I also picked up a set of used Seekins medium height rings. I sat the rings on Ken Farrel 20moa rail and secured them with the four torx screws. I then set the scope in the bottom of the rings and put the tops on, tightening the screws only slightly to keep it from moving. The following is the easiest way I know to set the cross hairs on the scope and it all should come out level with quality parts.
Take a set of straight feeler gauges and find the thickness that you need. Install them under the scope, between the top of the rail as pictured.
I then tighten the screws up to keep it level. I had already set and marked the distance that I wanted the scope to sit at for eye relief. This can easily be done by putting masking tape on the tube, which I did during the mock build. I did not take a picture of this and had already removed the tape before I thought to take a pic of it, sorry. So at this point, I simply tighten the eight torx screws on the rings and I'm set. I tightened the screws by hand and will follow with a torque wrench, but I have to borrow one from a buddy and could not get a hold of him.
So the last step to this was to install the bipod. I will not go into this as it is simple and most have done this, but here is a pic after the install to be thorough.
The finished product.
As you can see this is not rocket science! This is my very first complete build and I have high hopes for the rifle as a shooter. I have a fair amount of money invested in this rifle, but for what it should shoot it is not that much. I'm under $1500.00 total and could have saved some money here and there on some items. I did not have to get this stock and the CDI BDM or the Stockade bolt handle. I could have saved about $500 by not going this direction. I could have bought cheaper rings and probably could have found a cheaper action to use. I think a guy could build a decent rifle for less then $1000 and still be a very good shooter. I expect this rifle will shoot sub 3/4 moa or better and if it doesn't well then I'll sell it and buy/build something else. Thanks for checking it out guys and feel free to leave any feedback on the rifle or the build process. I am always looking to learn something new!
Thanks Jason
This is a pic with the go gauge inserted and the bolt closed
This is a pic with the tape on the back of the go gauge and the bolt closed as far as it would go without putting any real force on it.
This all went fine. I put the new recoil lug on and screwed the receiver onto the barrel. Then I set the headspace. Once the headspace was set, it was time to tighten everything up. I would strongly suggest an action wrench, but you can do without. I did because when I went to order an action wrench, they were on back order and I could not wait any longer, so I cheated alittle.
So with the barrel in the vise and the headspace set, I ran the barrel nut down by hand and made sure that the set screw on the backside of the recoil lug was in the notch on the receiver. Make sure that you put your barrel nut wrench on after you put your barrel in the vise and before you screw your reciever on! I used a 1/2" rachet on my barrel nut wrench and I used a large flat blade screwdriver to keep the receiver from turning. Tighten up you barrel nut and then recheck your headspace. At that point, I had a nice barreled action and it was time to install the stock.
First I had to install the CDI BDM. This is simple as the stock was already inletted for this particular BDM. It just dropped right in with a small amount of force. At that point, I turned my barreled action over in the vise and resecured it. The stock dropped right on and I installed the two receiver screws. These were then tightened down as hard as I could get em with the nut driver that I had. I will torque these later to 65in lbs.
This pic shows the CDI BDM being set into the stock.
This pic shows the stock installed on the barreled action, with the bolts installed, tightened, and the AICS mag.
Ok, so basically we have a functioning rifle at this point, but wait there's more! The next step was to mount and setup the scope. I chose a Primary Arms optic because, well it was cheap and I'd heard alot of good things about them. I also picked up a set of used Seekins medium height rings. I sat the rings on Ken Farrel 20moa rail and secured them with the four torx screws. I then set the scope in the bottom of the rings and put the tops on, tightening the screws only slightly to keep it from moving. The following is the easiest way I know to set the cross hairs on the scope and it all should come out level with quality parts.
Take a set of straight feeler gauges and find the thickness that you need. Install them under the scope, between the top of the rail as pictured.
I then tighten the screws up to keep it level. I had already set and marked the distance that I wanted the scope to sit at for eye relief. This can easily be done by putting masking tape on the tube, which I did during the mock build. I did not take a picture of this and had already removed the tape before I thought to take a pic of it, sorry. So at this point, I simply tighten the eight torx screws on the rings and I'm set. I tightened the screws by hand and will follow with a torque wrench, but I have to borrow one from a buddy and could not get a hold of him.
So the last step to this was to install the bipod. I will not go into this as it is simple and most have done this, but here is a pic after the install to be thorough.
The finished product.
As you can see this is not rocket science! This is my very first complete build and I have high hopes for the rifle as a shooter. I have a fair amount of money invested in this rifle, but for what it should shoot it is not that much. I'm under $1500.00 total and could have saved some money here and there on some items. I did not have to get this stock and the CDI BDM or the Stockade bolt handle. I could have saved about $500 by not going this direction. I could have bought cheaper rings and probably could have found a cheaper action to use. I think a guy could build a decent rifle for less then $1000 and still be a very good shooter. I expect this rifle will shoot sub 3/4 moa or better and if it doesn't well then I'll sell it and buy/build something else. Thanks for checking it out guys and feel free to leave any feedback on the rifle or the build process. I am always looking to learn something new!
Thanks Jason
Looks really nice!
Joining OSA might have been a mistake on my part because it's killing my wallet with all the projects I keep seeing some of you guys doing. You're making me want to build a rifle myself now.
Joining OSA might have been a mistake on my part because it's killing my wallet with all the projects I keep seeing some of you guys doing. You're making me want to build a rifle myself now.
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- Sale Price: 1150$
- Caliber: 7m-08
