Title says it all. Seems as tho the brand I have always used up to recent times has failed miserably after less than a year. I am now forced to repaint what I thought would last many years into the future. Any advise on what brand is the best of the best. I am not interested in systems that incorperate primer into the top coat.....AND, I don't want to see the primer setting up in the can after it has been used out of the day before. Yeah, this "fail brand's" primer would start setting up in the can with the lid shut tight. That just hit my mind as not being right. I will look forward to any advise on what paint members have used with outstanding result. I also need a company that will actually stand behind their product! Thanks in advance for your help!
Sherwin Williams Duration would be my suggestion. It seems expensive upfront. But it's actually not too bad because it's a one coat paint, so one gallon last, and you save on not doing multiple coats. Also it's guaranteed against peeling and blistering for as long as you own your home.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/products/duration_exterior_acrylic_latex/
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/products/duration_exterior_acrylic_latex/
I swear by Anchor Paint. Locally owned and operated, you don't pay for shipping and I have found the product to be top notch. That is just me though and I am not a painter by trade. Just painted my former house, my brother's house and my current house.
http://www.anchorpaint.com/
http://www.anchorpaint.com/
We actually went one down from that, Resilience, nice paint, good coverage. It isn't too hard to get the guys in a SW store to set you up on a "Commercial account" and get 20% off.
I've used Anchor paint, it doesn't compare to the paint I got from SW....
Sherwin Williams is the best. However most big name brands are owned by ICI which formulates the same paint under different names. However consistent great quality paint, knowledgeable employees SW is the best!
I used 2 coats of Duration on a deer stand. Vandals threw bottles at it last year. And a cedar tree has been rubbing in strong winds sometime since July til last week. Its right at a year and paint looks good. Heck it was rolled directly on plywood, no special attention used.
Specifically it was a gallon at half price cause it was mis matched for another customer. I wouldn't have spent full price on a deer stand. LOL
Specifically it was a gallon at half price cause it was mis matched for another customer. I wouldn't have spent full price on a deer stand. LOL
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Sherwin Williams always, always always. I've tried to save a few bucks before and I've always been disapointed.
Just did a lot of painting on my house in Ardmore. Contracted most of it, and did some myself.
As to the "one coat, primer included, one coat" paints, I'm not impressed. That only pertains to coverage though, they do seem to be high quality paints in general. Any name brand should last well with Sherwin Williams being at the top of the heap. Behr, Glidden and Valspar are all good too.
As to the "one coat, primer included, one coat" paints, I'm not impressed. That only pertains to coverage though, they do seem to be high quality paints in general. Any name brand should last well with Sherwin Williams being at the top of the heap. Behr, Glidden and Valspar are all good too.
When you say "failing" what exactly is the mode of failure? Is it painted now? New or repaired areas? Areas peeling? Curled? Cracked or crazed?
What is the substrate?
Wood siding? Masonry? Aluminum Siding? Vinyl Siding?
The primer you use will depend on what you are priming. Primer "setting up in the can" the day after you opened it may or may not be bad, depending on what type of primer you had, and how you resealed the can. You don't generally "prime" previously painted houses, other than spot priming bare areas of the substrate. You might put a barrier coat on a previously coated high performance substrate, when using a high performance coating. If you are priming over vinyl latex, acrylic latex or an acrylic residential house paint you are probably wasting time, money and sweat and causing yourself a lot of unnecessary grief. Primers are generally intended to stick to an unpainted surface, and develop the best adhesion to those surfaces. They don't generally work so well over previously applied coatings, as a general rule. Nothing is hard and fast anymore in the paint biz. S-W has about 3 manuals full of product data pages that each looks like a NYC phone book, (and that isn't an exaggeration) but as a general rule with residential coatings, what I say is true.
If you aren't willing to bust your ass getting it ready to paint, buy the cheapest stuff you can find, cause it just won't matter.
Once you get it properly prepped, primed, and caulked, use the Duration or SuperPaint from S-W. They have a store in Miami. Talk to the manager or Assistant, and not one of the part time kids. Don't be an ass about it. Just ask to see the Mgr or Asst. If they aren't there, ask when you might be able to catch them in the store. If you've got a really ****** problem, see if the manager will come out and give it a look and give you some direction.
Prep and prime before you caulk. The caulking will last longer over a primed surface. It stays more flexible.
I've been in the "paint business" for 27 years, and am a NACE certified coating inspector. If your exterior paint is failing/peeling in a year, and you've been buying a major brand, it ain't the paint. Do the prep work, or don't bother.
You've picked the best time of year to paint, it isn't too hot, and it isn't too cold, yet. If we get moisture in the next week, give yourself some time in the morning for the dew to dissipate and quit early enough in the afternoon for the last thing you painted to be well dry before the dew sets.
Do the prep work. 98% of a paint job is the surface prep. If you skip it, you will have an early failure. I promise.
What is the substrate?
Wood siding? Masonry? Aluminum Siding? Vinyl Siding?
The primer you use will depend on what you are priming. Primer "setting up in the can" the day after you opened it may or may not be bad, depending on what type of primer you had, and how you resealed the can. You don't generally "prime" previously painted houses, other than spot priming bare areas of the substrate. You might put a barrier coat on a previously coated high performance substrate, when using a high performance coating. If you are priming over vinyl latex, acrylic latex or an acrylic residential house paint you are probably wasting time, money and sweat and causing yourself a lot of unnecessary grief. Primers are generally intended to stick to an unpainted surface, and develop the best adhesion to those surfaces. They don't generally work so well over previously applied coatings, as a general rule. Nothing is hard and fast anymore in the paint biz. S-W has about 3 manuals full of product data pages that each looks like a NYC phone book, (and that isn't an exaggeration) but as a general rule with residential coatings, what I say is true.
If you aren't willing to bust your ass getting it ready to paint, buy the cheapest stuff you can find, cause it just won't matter.
Once you get it properly prepped, primed, and caulked, use the Duration or SuperPaint from S-W. They have a store in Miami. Talk to the manager or Assistant, and not one of the part time kids. Don't be an ass about it. Just ask to see the Mgr or Asst. If they aren't there, ask when you might be able to catch them in the store. If you've got a really ****** problem, see if the manager will come out and give it a look and give you some direction.
Prep and prime before you caulk. The caulking will last longer over a primed surface. It stays more flexible.
I've been in the "paint business" for 27 years, and am a NACE certified coating inspector. If your exterior paint is failing/peeling in a year, and you've been buying a major brand, it ain't the paint. Do the prep work, or don't bother.
You've picked the best time of year to paint, it isn't too hot, and it isn't too cold, yet. If we get moisture in the next week, give yourself some time in the morning for the dew to dissipate and quit early enough in the afternoon for the last thing you painted to be well dry before the dew sets.
Do the prep work. 98% of a paint job is the surface prep. If you skip it, you will have an early failure. I promise.
I've used S-W over the years and, while it is good paint, I always felt it just didn't quite do the job as advertised. So, last time, I did a little research and settled on Valspar Ultra Premium.
Of course, whatever you use, if you put it over bad paint, it ain't gonna work. Prime, Prime, Prime.
Of course, whatever you use, if you put it over bad paint, it ain't gonna work. Prime, Prime, Prime.
