ummmm....Jakeman wins this thread.
When you say "failing" what exactly is the mode of failure? Is it painted now? New or repaired areas? Areas peeling? Curled? Cracked or crazed?
What is the substrate?
Wood siding? Masonry? Aluminum Siding? Vinyl Siding?
The primer you use will depend on what you are priming. Primer "setting up in the can" the day after you opened it may or may not be bad, depending on what type of primer you had, and how you resealed the can. You don't generally "prime" previously painted houses, other than spot priming bare areas of the substrate. You might put a barrier coat on a previously coated high performance substrate, when using a high performance coating. If you are priming over vinyl latex, acrylic latex or an acrylic residential house paint you are probably wasting time, money and sweat and causing yourself a lot of unnecessary grief. Primers are generally intended to stick to an unpainted surface, and develop the best adhesion to those surfaces. They don't generally work so well over previously applied coatings, as a general rule. Nothing is hard and fast anymore in the paint biz. S-W has about 3 manuals full of product data pages that each looks like a NYC phone book, (and that isn't an exaggeration) but as a general rule with residential coatings, what I say is true.
If you aren't willing to bust your ass getting it ready to paint, buy the cheapest stuff you can find, cause it just won't matter.
Once you get it properly prepped, primed, and caulked, use the Duration or SuperPaint from S-W. They have a store in Miami. Talk to the manager or Assistant, and not one of the part time kids. Don't be an ass about it. Just ask to see the Mgr or Asst. If they aren't there, ask when you might be able to catch them in the store. If you've got a really ****** problem, see if the manager will come out and give it a look and give you some direction.
Prep and prime before you caulk. The caulking will last longer over a primed surface. It stays more flexible.
I've been in the "paint business" for 27 years, and am a NACE certified coating inspector. If your exterior paint is failing/peeling in a year, and you've been buying a major brand, it ain't the paint. Do the prep work, or don't bother.
You've picked the best time of year to paint, it isn't too hot, and it isn't too cold, yet. If we get moisture in the next week, give yourself some time in the morning for the dew to dissipate and quit early enough in the afternoon for the last thing you painted to be well dry before the dew sets.
Do the prep work. 98% of a paint job is the surface prep. If you skip it, you will have an early failure. I promise.
Do the prep work. 98% of a paint job is the surface prep. If you skip it, you will have an early failure. I promise.
General cleaning with a power washer is fine. You want to wash off any dirt, dust, or chalking. You wouldn't try to paint a car with any of those would you? A power washer should also knock off any flaking paint. Be careful with them though. You don't want to get to close and gouge your wood. If some of your paint is peeling, you might have to hand scrape it.
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