How much would it cost

[swampratt]

Yeah, but how many of those old motors made it to 250k+ miles without major work.

Every single carbed engine I had made it that far and then some.
I could be odd guy out because I can keep my stuff in tune.
And I hammer down on my stuff all the time. Keeps the lube moving.

My old Nissan Z cars could go over 300,000 easy and the Ford inline 6 engines and old Honda CVCC 4 cylinders that got 50+ MPG with a carb would not die.

Over 450,000 miles on my standard bore 350 engine built in 1969 it's in my 57 chevy now doing well.
No ring ridge after all those miles. That one does not count though as I have changed heads and cams and pistons in it just for grins and looking for different MPG or different power.

I have had a few 305 V8 engines go 300,000 + miles but they do not make enough power to blow their self up.

I drive a lot of miles though and one year i put 70,000 miles on my 1969 350" engine when it was in my 1978 Nova and it ran 12.51 in the 1/4 mile at the time with uniroyal tiger paw tires.

Could not open the 4 barrel all the way until 1/2 way through 2nd gear or you would haze the tires.
It was running 11.9 compression at the time and a 270H comp flat tappet cam. Lots of cranking pressure 245PSI.

That engine is in my 57 chevy now.
Watch the tachometer. Points bounce at 7000 rpm..Oh well it ran well in that configuration and I have since stuck in another can and different intake.
4500 stall coan converter and 4.56 rear gear 280H comp cam and 601 casting 305 heads with 1.84-1.50 valves.. yea tiny stock 305 valves.
Heads are ported of course

 

[Honey Badger]

Every single carbed engine I had made it that far and then some.
I could be odd guy out because I can keep my stuff in tune.
And I hammer down on my stuff all the time. Keeps the lube moving.

My old Nissan Z cars could go over 300,000 easy and the Ford inline 6 engines and old Honda CVCC 4 cylinders that got 50+ MPG with a carb would not die.

Over 450,000 miles on my standard bore 350 engine built in 1969 it's in my 57 chevy now doing well.
No ring ridge after all those miles. That one does not count though as I have changed heads and cams and pistons in it just for grins and looking for different MPG or different power.

I have had a few 305 V8 engines go 300,000 + miles but they do not make enough power to blow their self up.

I drive a lot of miles though and one year i put 70,000 miles on my 1969 350" engine when it was in my 1978 Nova and it ran 12.51 in the 1/4 mile at the time with uniroyal tiger paw tires.

Could not open the 4 barrel all the way until 1/2 way through 2nd gear or you would haze the tires.
It was running 11.9 compression at the time and a 270H comp flat tappet cam. Lots of cranking pressure 245PSI.

That engine is in my 57 chevy now.
Watch the tachometer. Points bounce at 7000 rpm..Oh well it ran well in that configuration and I have since stuck in another can and different intake.
4500 stall coan converter and 4.56 rear gear 280H comp cam and 601 casting 305 heads with 1.84-1.50 valves.. yea tiny stock 305 valves.
Heads are ported of course

Wowwwwww! Love it.

 

[Honey Badger]

Made some progress today. I got the bed off.

 

[Nate08chevy]

Call Dan at Speedomotive in Medford for machine work and/or build. He’s thorough and honest if something needs work or doesn’t. He’s busy. Month probably longer.

I just did a 4.0 ford v6 this year. Decked block, bore hone, ground crank, hot tank etc and it was $900 out the door. Just the block work no heads. I bought parts and put it together.

My opinion is if you can take them out you can rebuild them. Those engines and trans have so many “how to” books they’re basically step by step. Just may take you a lot longer. I’m in PC also. Give me a shout and I’ll come help.

 

[swampratt]

I have passed up a few machine shops after asking them a couple simple questions.

What surface finish do you use on cast rings?
What surface finish do you use on moly rings?
A couple shops told me they use the same finish for all rings.
And it was coarse 240 grit.

NO thanks.

https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/for-those-that-freshen-inspect-ball-hone.530261/

Another very popular machine shop around here would use a torch to heat the rod small end and turned all the connecting rods blue 1/2 way down the beam.

Those rods are junk after that move!

Another shop I asked what cylinder wall clearance will you put on my cast pistons and he stated 1/2 a thousandths.
UUUUMMMMM NO. This was an engine that was meant to be hammered on for racing.
I wanted a minimum of .0025" and .0035 would be fine also.

I got the finished ready to clean and assemble block and found a dark spot in 1 cylinder.
It was below where the piston top would be in the block.

That dark spot was tiny but i seen it about the size of a period and I picked at it with a thumb tack.

It was a rust pit that went all the way into the water jacket.

Junk block.
You must clean and look really close at everything or you would chase your tail when something bad shows up.

 

[Camo]

Depends on condition, it there is no ridge then home it, no groves on the crank then polish it. No reason to bore a block just to rebuild it. I’ve done many rebuilds without involving a machine shop,