I don't trim any pistol brass. I crimp everything. Either roll or taper. I have noticed with light loads 38 special non plated last a long time. The nickel plated cases will split before the unplated. However they clean up better and look pretty.
I will always echo your sentiment of ensuring new loaders learn safely.
In the 1925 edition of American Rifleman, Mr. Keith published some reports of his experimentation with heavy loads as well as describing pieces of his colt sent back to the factory for failure analysis. (I am told colt no longer offers this service
).He pushed em, he just had a solid knowledge base to do so from.
That 600 yard shot with his 44 is the stuff of legend.
Sorting by headstamp is a good idea especially 9mm. Alot of variation.
I never told a reloader to do a specific thing.
I just stated my results like many others state their results.
The gas check is just a tick larger than the .357" sized bullet due to the check being on the bullet when running through the push through sizer and brass check has a tick more spring back than lead.
The case has .002" interference fit so .355" inside diameter.
After the bullet is loaded into the case I can measure the case wall OD (outside diameter) where the bullet is at and continue to measure all the way to the case mouth flare.
The measurement of the case mouth flare is .001" larger than the rest of the case and fits in my Chamber.
NOTICE I said My chamber.
I have Ran the cases into the Lee Carbide crimp die and NOT used the crimp.
BUT only far enough to iron out that .001" larger section so just kissing the case mouth flare.
NO difference in accuracy or velocity.
I eliminate that step because there is zero difference for me and my weapon.
If I run the loaded case into the Carbide die all the way it pinches the case down too much where the bullet is and now my .357" sized bullet gets pinched down but the brass springs back and I get a loose bullet.
I can actually push the bullet into the case deeper with my fingers.
Now that is dangerous.
If I apply a crimp with that Lee carbide crimp die sure that will hold the bullet better but having
a bullet smaller than the ID of the case is a terrible deal.
Now I went another path with crimp and that is to crimp with my seating die.
As some seating dies also crimp and NO accuracy there and you will need to trim cases
all to the same length to get those crimps all the same.
I did trim all my 357 cases for this German revolver because some were too long to chamber
A lot of factory ammo will not chamber in this revolver.
My tests were with 357 brass and I sorted by head stamp and by size after sizing because different brass will have different ID after sizing and i found this hurts cast lead shooting accuracy.
My S&W will eat anything.
When I shoot 38 brass in my 357's length does not matter at all.
How much are you flaring your case and what is the flare OD vs case OD after the round is loaded.
I flare my 45acp also and i found the Carbide crimp die or using a seat/crimp die will hurt my accuracy.
Cast bullets again and 50/50 wheel weight /pure soft lead.
That particular 45 has a large groove diameter and I size my bullets to .4525"
And the soft alloy allows the bullet to bump up quicker than a hard cast and keep leading low to none and keeps accuracy up.
Notice loads and loading techniques discussed here or any forum by anyone other than the gun manufacturer could be dangerous and should never be attempted.
Follow only recent loading manuals and never look for information on the internet unless posted by the gun manufacturer.
I just stated my results like many others state their results.
Yes I bell the mouth just enough to get 1/2 or less of the gas check into the case.
The gas check is just a tick larger than the .357" sized bullet due to the check being on the bullet when running through the push through sizer and brass check has a tick more spring back than lead.
The case has .002" interference fit so .355" inside diameter.
After the bullet is loaded into the case I can measure the case wall OD (outside diameter) where the bullet is at and continue to measure all the way to the case mouth flare.
The measurement of the case mouth flare is .001" larger than the rest of the case and fits in my Chamber.
NOTICE I said My chamber.
I have Ran the cases into the Lee Carbide crimp die and NOT used the crimp.
BUT only far enough to iron out that .001" larger section so just kissing the case mouth flare.
NO difference in accuracy or velocity.
I eliminate that step because there is zero difference for me and my weapon.
If I run the loaded case into the Carbide die all the way it pinches the case down too much where the bullet is and now my .357" sized bullet gets pinched down but the brass springs back and I get a loose bullet.
I can actually push the bullet into the case deeper with my fingers.
Now that is dangerous.
If I apply a crimp with that Lee carbide crimp die sure that will hold the bullet better but having
a bullet smaller than the ID of the case is a terrible deal.
Now I went another path with crimp and that is to crimp with my seating die.
As some seating dies also crimp and NO accuracy there and you will need to trim cases
all to the same length to get those crimps all the same.
I did trim all my 357 cases for this German revolver because some were too long to chamber
A lot of factory ammo will not chamber in this revolver.
My tests were with 357 brass and I sorted by head stamp and by size after sizing because different brass will have different ID after sizing and i found this hurts cast lead shooting accuracy.
My S&W will eat anything.
When I shoot 38 brass in my 357's length does not matter at all.
How much are you flaring your case and what is the flare OD vs case OD after the round is loaded.
I flare my 45acp also and i found the Carbide crimp die or using a seat/crimp die will hurt my accuracy.
Cast bullets again and 50/50 wheel weight /pure soft lead.
That particular 45 has a large groove diameter and I size my bullets to .4525"
And the soft alloy allows the bullet to bump up quicker than a hard cast and keep leading low to none and keeps accuracy up.
Notice loads and loading techniques discussed here or any forum by anyone other than the gun manufacturer could be dangerous and should never be attempted.
Follow only recent loading manuals and never look for information on the internet unless posted by the gun manufacturer.
