Any LONG-RANGE shooters here???

[7stw]

7stw,

I have always gotten my best velocity and accuracy using IMR-7828 powder. For primers, some guns prefer Federal 215 Gold Medal Magnum Match and others Winchester LRM. My most consistently accurate bullet is Sierra's 160 gr. B.T.-Spitzer, followed by Sierra's 150 gr. B.T.-Spitzer. Both bullets will stay inside 2" at 600 yds. if I do my part...

I bed a Bench Rest follower in the bottom of the Remington action to make it a single shot...

I was a Military and Police Firearms Training Instructor for 12 years and had to give it up when I got slammed with arthritis and I could no longer do what was required to properly train but, on ocassion, I still teach the fundamentals of shooting at long-range and extreme-ranges. I am always willing to share my knowledge with others...

Very nice shooting on your head shot deer...

I use a lot of Dan Lilja's barrels as well as Hart, Pac-Nor, Krieger, Shilen, Bartlein and a few others...

Thank you on the Diller. I have to say though, that that was a very lucky shot! I say that, because armadillos very seldom stay put in one spot for more than a second or two and I just settled the cross hairs in the middle of it, touched the trigger and the rest as they say - is history...

Do you have a drop chart made for your long-range guns? Do you have a range finder? These two items are a must have for being able to hit your target at any range further than what the gun is actually sighted in at. Mine stay sighted in at 600 yds. and then my drop tables are in 50 yd. increments out to as far as I can "accurately" hit my targets. If you do not have a drop table and you have a place to where you can shoot long range, I can give you simple instructions of making your own drop table. Just let me know....

Yes sir I have a rangefinder that works well out to 1000 of highly reflective objects and cows to 850 or so I hope to upgrade this fall to a zeiss combo bino/rangefinder. I also havea couple ofhigh quality spotters. I think I need to switch to a dial system for my scopes instead of using mil dots and drop comp reticles I wasn't that good at algebra let alone trig. Besides on a variable power scope the dots are only the proper size for the equation at a minimal power. And I'll send you a pm with my email id love to have another way to calculate a drop chart.i have a friend who has steel out to 1200 yds. I think I need to practice more inside 1k and build my confidence. On a side note on 30 cals have you had any experiance with a .300 jarret ? That round fascinated me ballistically on paper. I met a well healed gentelman who owns a jarrett rifle in that caliber that printed some impressive groups but I can't afford a jarrett. But I've heard reamers are available. And brass can be had or produced. Also are you mainly shooting in Craig county or are you in Ottawa also ? I'm down by okc but I know lots of folks in that area and there are plenty of places especially west of welch where 1200 plus are easily doable. Thanks agin sir.

 

[distantfoe]

Yes sir I have a rangefinder that works well out to 1000 of highly reflective objects and cows to 850 or so I hope to upgrade this fall to a zeiss combo bino/rangefinder. I also havea couple ofhigh quality spotters.

On a side note on 30 cals have you had any experiance with a .300 jarret ? That round fascinated me ballistically on paper. I met a well healed gentelman who owns a jarrett rifle in that caliber that printed some impressive groups but I can't afford a jarrett. But I've heard reamers are available. And brass can be had or produced. Also are you mainly shooting in Craig county or are you in Ottawa also ? I'm down by okc but I know lots of folks in that area and there are plenty of places especially west of welch where 1200 plus are easily doable. Thanks agin sir.

I actually have experience with both questions. The zeiss rangefinder binoculars have worked great for myself. It hangs with the vectors to 1k. Past 1k the vector prevails.

AS for the 300 Jarrett, I've owned two. If you're going to run the light/fast bullets it'll work great at moderately longerange targets, say 6-700. If going with heavy per caliber bullets it does well at longer ranges. Although you're stuck with inconsistent remington brass or necking up winchester stw brass that can suck when necking up, producing a doughnut at the neck/shoulder junction.

 

[Master Carper]

Wind is a BIG consideration when shooting long range and I did mention that I will not shoot a deer when the wind is blowing. Can I shoot in the wind? Of course I can. I have shot 1,000 yd. targets with 20 mph cross winds and it's no big deal. You have to know the wind, how fast and how much to compentate, in both windage and elevation. Nope, you can't laser wind but, you can judge from the grass moving, mirage, trees and such, and accurately determing how much the wind is moving, at different reference points along the way....

 

[Master Carper]

This is how I made my last drop chart for shooting from 600 to 1,200 yds. with a 7mm STW shooting Sierra's 150 gr. B.T.-Spitzer at 3,400 fps. with a standard deviation of 11 fps. for 5 rounds...

I do all shooting from a solid bench, with front and rear rests...

Scope base has a .040 taper...

Scopes are sighted in for bullet to strike point of aim at 600 yds...

All drop charts are made when there is "0" wind blowing...

I prefer cool overcast days, when mirage is at a minimum and the air is clear and not hazy...

Two people are needed for this and makes everything go much easier...

I start with making a wood frame that is 4 ft. X 16 ft. - two sheets of plywood, end to end...

Put a stick on target at the top of 16 ft. target frame. Use as small a target as you can comfortably see. Also, make sure your scope's elevation adjustment is set to "0"...

With your gun already sighted in at 600 yds., shoot "1" carefully aimed shot at your target at 650 yds.. Now, have your partner put the smallest target you can accurately see over the center of the bullet hole. With your cross hairs centered on your aiming spot, carefully rotate the elevation adjustment knob on your scope, until the cross hairs center the target, where your bullet hole is. Record this setting as this will now be used for targets at 650 yds...

Using your original aiming point, fire "1" shot at 700 yds.. Have your buddy put a target over the center of that bullet hole. You now put the cross hairs on your main target, and dial your scope elevation adjustment knob, until the cross hairs intersect in the center of the target where the 700 yd. bullet went. Record this setting and you are now set for 700 yds...

Repeat the above steps for as far as you think you will ever shoot and record every setting...

Some guys will place a 25 lb. shot bag over the cheek piece of the stock when making click adjustments, to make sure the gun does not move, as it will help make adjustments a little more precise...

After I set one of my guns up last year and completed my drop table, using gallon milk jugs full of water, I set jugs out from 650 yds. to 1,200 yds., in 50 yd. increments. Looking at my drop table I had made earlier, I fired one round at 900 yds. - HIT, I dialed my scope for 650 yds., fired one round - HIT. Fired one round at 1,100 yds. - HIT. I did this at all ranges and never missed a target...

You can either tape a chart to the side of your stock or do what I do, have your chart laminated and hang it on your trigger guard - then you'll always have it with you...

Range your target, dial your scope in, put the cross hairs where you want the bullet to go and gently squeeze the trigger....

Here are a couple of other things that need to be considered, that I do. Always do your load development at 200 yds.. Reason being is that bullets exceeding 3,000 fps. do not fully stabilize until they are well in excess of 100 yds...

I also take a 3 ft. length of black electrical tape, put it on a target in the vertical position. Make sure it is straight and when hanging your target, use a plumb level to make sure it is running perfectly straight. Shoot one or two shots at 200, 300 and 400 yds.. Your bullet holes should be in the center of the tape and not off to one side or another. What you want to do, is make sure your scope is not canted one way or another. If it is, the bullet hole will walk the target at and angle. If this is the case, loosen the scope ring halves and rotate the scope slightly and reshoot your line at 200, 300 and 400 yds.. If your scope is not canted, you should be able to keep all shots in the tape...

Reloading - just a few tips that I always do. I always seat my bullets to touch the rifling. I always set my sizing die to "float" in the press. I never use a full length size die unless absolutely necessary. Make sure the inside flash hole of the case has been deburred...

If I missed anything, just ask!


DAVID

 

[MoBoost]

If I missed anything, just ask!

Let me get it straight:

you shoot 2.5" cans @ 600 yards
you shoot 0.5" electrical tape @ 400
there are windless days in Oklahoma
you actually recommended trespassing!!!
don't shoot 6PPC at 100 yards because it's not stabilized
and most importantly, you don't have to adjust windage for long shots because spin drift doesn't exist.

Did I mention - you recommended driving onto someone's property without permission?

[Broken External Image]

 

[Master Carper]

No one here mentioned shooting a PPC cartridge...

I've hunted for over half a century and have NEVER trespassed on any one else's property - nor do I recommend it...

Yes, I can explode a 12 oz. soda pop can at 600 yds. - quite easily...

Yes, I can put bullet holes in a 1/2" wide strip of electrical tape at 400 yds...

And who the hell said you don't have to adjust for windage at long range?

It's wise to not stick ones nose in things one knows nothing about....

 

[DEER 24/7]

it seems that alot young people these days just dont have any manners

 

[7stw]

Let me get it straight:

you shoot 2.5" cans @ 600 yards
you shoot 0.5" electrical tape @ 400
there are windless days in Oklahoma
you actually recommended trespassing!!!
don't shoot 6PPC at 100 yards because it's not stabilized
and most importantly, you don't have to adjust windage for long shots because spin drift doesn't exist.

Did I mention - you recommended driving onto someone's property without permission?

For a second I thought I was on "the hide" which I no longer frequent because of responses such as this.

 

[Master Carper]

For a second I thought I was on "the hide" which I no longer frequent because of responses such as this.

I understand where you're coming from. It's hard to try and help someone out when there are those that won't let you...

My Military and Police records speak for themselves as well as a shelf full of badges, awards, plaques, ribbons, etc...

You can only teach those who are willing to learn....

 

[fluxed]

I have been long range hunting for over a decade. My first Idaho Mule deer was 817 yards in 1999. It is another world and gaining huge popularity very quickly. Most of my rifles have been built around the rem 700 actions, but I am currently building around a Sako TRG action in 338 Lapua. I hope to have this rifle built by late March. Living in Idaho for several years was nice for long range.

My advice to anyone that does not have a military or long range target shooting background would be to take some classes in long range shooting before taking it up. Something that gets your basic form down. Check-weld, bone support vs muscle support and how to melt into the rifle. Surprise trigger break techniques too.

I also agree with earlier posters that hunting situations with moving game can quickly go south, so to speak, when paper shooters have had little experience with it.

I am blessed to have a huge chunk of land to hunt and there are some limited situations where game is available to shoot past 1000. Although I must admit most shots are under 100.