Riding Lawn Mower Purchase: CVT vs Hydrostatic Transmission

[YukonGlocker]

Given what you're cutting, I'd consider a commercial walk-behind. I've owned both Exmark and Scag, used them commercially, and they are great for lots your size.

 

[Glocktogo]

Is your deck lift a linear drive unit?

I have no idea. It has a pump and a regulator?

 

[dennishoddy]

I have no idea. It has a pump and a regulator?

Yours sounds hydraulic operated. Our Bad Boy uses a linear actuator, basically an electric powered ball screw.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_actuator

 

[_CY_]

all hydrostatic drive tractors use a main hydraulic pump that delivers oil pressure to drive component(s). if mower is functional main pump is still working. problem with deck hydraulic deck not raising should be traced to valve that operates ram, hoses and/or the ram leaking.

to test isolate hydraulic line with a test gauge .. then operate valve to check pressures.

[Broken External Image]

 

[Glocktogo]

Yours sounds hydraulic operated. Our Bad Boy uses a linear actuator, basically an electric powered ball screw.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_actuator

all hydrostatic drive tractors use a main hydraulic pump that delivers oil pressure to drive component(s). if mower is functional main pump is still working. problem with deck hydraulic deck not raising should be traced to valve that operates ram, hoses and/or the ram leaking.

to test isolate hydraulic line with a test gauge .. then operate valve to check pressures.

[Broken External Image]

Yep. It started with a slow bleed down and ultimately went to having to keep the lift switch depressed to keep the deck raised. Now it doesn't raise at all.

I need to find a local independent shop to take a look at it. See if I can get a lower quote than $500.

 

[TerryMiller]

This may not help you, and I won't recommend any brands, but we used to have 5 acres with a pond and dam. We had a Craftsman tractor with a 46" deck (if I remember correctly) and the hydrostatic drive. (Farm experience here, so that was a factor in my choosing.) It did have the Kohler engine and I love those Kohlers. On the farm, we had a machine to pull behind the combine that caught the chaff and straw from the combine and made hay piles that were good for the cattle. They'd munch it down and then use what was left for a place to sleep in the winter. That Kohler on that machine was right in the area of where the "tailings" came out of the combine. Other than extending the air intake up above the tailings, we didn't do anything and that motor ran flawlessly for a number of years.

On our 5 acres, when I'd mow down next to the pond, it was at an angle that scared the wife to pieces. I would mow it sideways (not down or up slope) and put the transmission at the lowest it would go. It took a while to mow around the pond, but I never felt that I was in danger of tipping over, in spite of the angle. If you have an area where you think the slower you go, the better, then hydrostat drive is the way to go. While it would take me 8 hours a week to mow the 5 acres, I didn't mind. Driving that Craftsman was like therapy from my "day-job."

Now, I'm retired and live in an RV in Colorado. I don't do lawns, so I don't even own a mower.

 

[_CY_]

Yep. It started with a slow bleed down and ultimately went to having to keep the lift switch depressed to keep the deck raised. Now it doesn't raise at all.

I need to find a local independent shop to take a look at it. See if I can get a lower quote than $500.

fix could be simple as a new hydraulic line .. there's several shops that custom make up high pressure flex line for very reasonable prices. all you have to do is take your old hose in to them .. they will make a new flex hose that matches your OEM fittings. be surprised if it's much more than $35 or so ..

Fluid Specialties
1 S 109th East Pl
Tulsa, OK 74128

918-437-4000

 

[Glocktogo]

fix could be simple as a new hydraulic line .. there's several shops that custom make up high pressure flex line for very reasonable prices. all you have to do is take your old hose in to them .. they will make a new flex hose that matches your OEM fittings. be surprised if it's much more than $35 or so ..

Fluid Specialties
1 S 109th East Pl
Tulsa, OK 74128

918-437-4000

Thanks, I'll check into that!

 

[BlackRifle]

I bought a D 105 from Lowes. First off,there is no differance between what Lowes sells and a place like P&K in Norman sells.I checked.As a matter of fact,John Deere does not allow Lowes employees to assemble their lawn mowers. When John Deere mowers are delivered to Lowes,P&K comes out and assembles them. I know because there is a P&K sticker on the back of all the John Deere mowers. Also the guys at Lowes told me they don't touch them.

 

[_CY_]

I bought a D 105 from Lowes. First off,there is no differance between what Lowes sells and a place like P&K in Norman sells.I checked.As a matter of fact,John Deere does not allow Lowes employees to assemble their lawn mowers. When John Deere mowers are delivered to Lowes,P&K comes out and assembles them. I know because there is a P&K sticker on the back of all the John Deere mowers. Also the guys at Lowes told me they don't touch them.

sorry but your JD D105 is a good quality but still a low end riding mower with a 17.5hp BS engine .. weight 445 lb with belt-driven mechanical CVT transmission. no comparison to commercial grade mowers like Case/Ingersoll or JD with hydrostatic drives, kohler/onan engines and weight 650lb to 950lb range. high end JD mowers like 455 will have 22hp 3 cylinder Yamar diesel engine, hydrostatic and weight 950lb ...

much rather spend say $1,500 for a used Case/Ingersoll or Ford NewHolland with low hours/excellent condition vs same $$ for a new low end mower. but it's not for everyone .. especially if one is not mechanically inclined. some folks would be better off starting off with a new machine.

most commercial grade mowers if kept in good condition will hold their values for a long time.