Reloading manual for complete beginner?

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Stingray

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I dont know what kind of loading press you have your heart set on but the Lee reloading manual is a good read. Good luck and enjoy.

I've been shopping around online. Looks like I'll probably go with the Lee Challenger set. From what I can tell it has most of what I need to get started other than dies, and the price is definitely right.

-S
 

WILLARD

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I've been shopping around online. Looks like I'll probably go with the Lee Challenger set. From what I can tell it has most of what I need to get started other than dies, and the price is definitely right.

-S
That looks like a good kit. Get a good set of calipers to check over all length. Try not to be intimidated if you can follow directions you can reload.
 

Stingray

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That looks like a good kit. Get a good set of calipers to check over all length. Try not to be intimidated if you can follow directions you can reload.

Thanks for that info Willard. I've already got a good set of calipers in my tool collection so I'm good to go there at least. :D

I'm very mechanically inclined and a good learner. I don't think I'll have too much trouble learning to reload, but given the nature of the hobby, I feel like I should take it slow and learn how to do it right.

-S
 

criticalbass

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Lyman's 49th edition...not biased to any brand that I can see, has load data for lead, and a very good section for beginners.

Agreed. The basics are there, and lots of good loads as well. On page 251 there is data for the 32 Winchester Special, which I presume is what you are planning to load. Since it's a nearly straight walled case, it shouldn't be much harder for you than .38 special.

When you get ready for a press, consider a turret press. Lyman has a good one, but there are better ones.

There is also 32-20 Winchester data if that's what you have. CB
 

okjoek

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Reloading will change your shooting life, it makes it so much more interesting and will improve your groups. You can take reloading as far as you want to just depends on your interest.

Lee equipment is in my mind undervalued and well thought out. I only have one Lee press, the classic, I like iron not aluminum, but the aluminum ones work good as well. Lee looks at stuff from a different perspective, but his stuff works good and is much less expensive. His manual is good as well and teaches a lot, though I have a number of others as well. As you get into it you will acquire more.
 

Stingray

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On page 251 there is data for the 32 Winchester Special, which I presume is what you are planning to load. Since it's a nearly straight walled case, it shouldn't be much harder for you than .38 special.

You are correct, that's what I'm planning to load because of the relative difficulty of sourcing factory loads in that caliber. However it's not a straight walled case, looks almost identical to a 30-30. I'm not sure how much difference that makes in terms of reloading.

ai123.photobucket.com_albums_o293_stingrayg4_Guns_32winspl_ammo.jpg


-S
 

criticalbass

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You are correct, that's what I'm planning to load because of the relative difficulty of sourcing factory loads in that caliber. However it's not a straight walled case, looks almost identical to a 30-30. I'm not sure how much difference that makes in terms of reloading.

-S

"Nearly" straight as opposed to the bottleneck you see on lots of modern cases. Makes for less recoil. The case is derived from the 30-30, just necked up tio 321.

These are easier to resize than some, and that's about the main difference.

I presume your gun is lever action? You may want to see if Lee offers their factory crimp die in this caliber. If not, you can send them a round and they'll make you one for a surprisingly low price. I think it's under $50. It gives a really good crimp regardless of variations in specific pieces of brass. Case length and neck thickness are a pain with most crimps, but not with the Lee crimper. It squeezes the brass from the side and if set too tight can actually put a dent in the bullet under the brass.

I think you can use 30-30 brass. Lyman says the case is derived from the 30-30 case. Has to be a better round than the 30-30. You would just run the brass through your de-prime/resize die. The die will enlarge the case mouth to fit your .321 bullets, and any other difference would fireform on the first firing. I do that with the .338-06 using 30-06 brass and it works fine. CB
 

Stingray

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"Nearly" straight as opposed to the bottleneck you see on lots of modern cases.

Ah, I misunderstood.

I presume your gun is lever action? You may want to see if Lee offers their factory crimp die in this caliber.

Yes, it's a Winchester 94. I'm pretty sure I've seen the crimp die online somewhere in .32 win spl.

I think you can use 30-30 brass. Lyman says the case is derived from the 30-30 case. Has to be a better round than the 30-30. You would just run the brass through your de-prime/resize die. The die will enlarge the case mouth to fit your .321 bullets, and any other difference would fireform on the first firing. I do that with the .338-06 using 30-06 brass and it works fine. CB

I read a couple of places that you can use 30-30 brass. Good news, because I'm sure it will be easier to find. I'd be concerned having 32 spl ammo around that's marked as 30-30 if I had a gun chambered for 30-30, but I don't, so I don't see that there would be any harm in it.

-S
 
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The .30-30 is one of if not the easiest bottleneck cartridge to reload for. I might suspect that the the .32 Spec is in the same league.
Other than case lube I treat them almost like pistol cartridges.
I will trim new brass once then I might check them after 8-9 loadings.
These cartridges just beg for a cast bullet, give it a try.
I killed a nice fat doe last year with a hand loaded cast bullet in .30-30, took out ribs on the way in and on the way out.
As far as reformed cases a quick touch with a file can mark them as not regular rounds.
 

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