Any safe recommendations?

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Profreedomokie

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Years ago someone on here posted a link to a safe retailer in Texas owned by a retired cop. He had a 30 video all about gun safes. All the pros and cons including meanings of the fire rating and security ratings. The one thing that stood out to me was he said a safe with at least a 1/4" thick door face was way better than the thin boxed type doors.
 

jakeman

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I called Armor Vault couple years ago and they told me that they were no longer making safes & were now a dispensary. They , like Bear , make very solid key only safes. Glad they are back in business.

I didn’t know any of that.

I don’t know that they are in the safe business again. Next time I’m that area I’ll swing by and have a look. They made a good safe, but they were expensive.
 

geezer77

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I got a closer look at some more details on the Liberty Safe "breach of privacy" story this morning, via this post on Twitter by Liberty management:



As best I can see, Liberty was wrong to (a) keep the list to start with (wow, if hacked, how much would that list be worth on the dark web?), and (b) to give up a particular customer's info to the Feds without stronger legal reason (a specific court order).

I honestly don't understand why Liberty didn't simply assign the same simple entry combo to ALL of their consumer safes, such as "123456" or something similar, like makers of WiFi routers routinely assign "password" or "1234" to all of their devices and warn the buyer to CHANGE IT before connecting to the internet. Changing digital combo lock passwords is easy, and there are usually very clear instructions provided with the safe on how to do it.

However, it looks as if the management has immediately stepped up and acknowledged the mistake, and has done the right and sensible thing (now that the horse is out of the barn!). Current registered Liberty owners can opt out of the list and have their data deleted. Then, like Apple with iPhones, if the feds want in, Liberty is legally justified in saying they cannot comply, period.

The important takeaway is the Liberty combo list is the original RANDOM FACTORY-ASSIGNED digital combination, installed at the factory in that specific safe's (and ONLY that safe's) lock. If the new owner didn't immediately change that combination to one of his own choosing, then as far as I'm concerned, shame on his dumb a**. I'm looking at you, Mr. FFL.

I admit when I first heard this story, I thought Liberty was putting a "back door" combo into every lock, separate and hidden from the safe's buyer. THAT would be an explosively serious situation. But that's clearly not the case here, thank goodness.

I happen to use Cannon, but Liberty make great safes too. If you own one, make sure you're not still using the "factory" combination!
 
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jakeman

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I didn’t know any of that.

I don’t know that they are in the safe business again. Next time I’m that area I’ll swing by and have a look. They made a good safe, but they were expensive.

I can’t find their web page. If they’re out of business then I’d call Bear.

They don’t use “gauge” steel either. They use plate steel. This is the way. This is security. This is a safe, not a metal cabinet. Nobody is going to get in one of these safes with a pry bar.
 

Mr.Glock

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I had 3 Armor Vaults, as well as I had Armor Vault build 2 below ground storm shelter doors. They built good safes and damn strong cellar doors. But that bottom keyed lock grew to be a pain to me. That’s when I switched them all out to AmSec Dial Safes. I bought one Amsec off a board member here years ago.

And I do indeed bolt all four corners down to the concrete. I also put a 3/8 piece of live rubber as a vapor/moisture barrier under them before bolting down.
 

jakeman

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I think the guy at Armor was a former bear employee, but I’m not sure. Their safes were very similar in construction to the Bear safe.

From Bear’s website:

Bear Safes® uses a key lock system. We use an American made 2000 Series slug, with an American 2010 Series puck lock that is made from solid steel, milled, tempered and stainless coated. The lock is welded to the door and covered with a 3/16 inch steel protective cover. In over 30 years and hundreds of attacks, we have never had a safe forced open nor have we had to repair a safe due to an attempted break-in.

This is pretty much the same story as told to me by Armor.

I’m kinda bummed about Armor going OOB. They made a good safe. I guess I’ll look at the AmSec safes when I buy another safe, but it will probably be a Bear.
 

Mr.Glock

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I think the guy at Armor was a former bear employee, but I’m not sure. Their safes were very similar in construction to the Bear safe.

From Bear’s website:

Bear Safes® uses a key lock system. We use an American made 2000 Series slug, with an American 2010 Series puck lock that is made from solid steel, milled, tempered and stainless coated. The lock is welded to the door and covered with a 3/16 inch steel protective cover. In over 30 years and hundreds of attacks, we have never had a safe forced open nor have we had to repair a safe due to an attempted break-in.

This is pretty much the same story as told to me by Armor.

I’m kinda bummed about Armor going OOB. They made a good safe. I guess I’ll look at the AmSec safes when I buy another safe, but it will probably be a Bear.


True words sir! While I was younger before any Surgeries, I too felt safe with the Armor Vaults I used. But again, that bottom lock grew to a pain in my ass, back and shoulders ! But a fine safe they did build!

I had a Bear that was not fireproof, sold it to a Buddy who owns a Tag Office and he still uses it till this day for Tag storage. He likes it. And it was built very similar to the Armor Vaults is true!
 
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JR18

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I got a Sturdy safe and am pretty pleased with it. There bare bones safe starts with 3/16 metal and only goes up from there. Few pricey options if you reinforce or add stainless steel.
 

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